Hi all,
 
I'm about to get cracking on getting the body of my Escort up to snuff before having a full re-spray done.  Whilst I hope to achieve a high standard, it won't be a show car or used on the track; just a nice street cruiser.
 
I've spoken with some pros about the body work, and unsurprisingly have been recommended to go completely bare shell inside and out and top to bottom, so they can rust-proof the s**t out of it using all manner of exotic materials.  I don't have a blank cheque book, so would have to tackle as much of the stripping as possible at home.  
 
I'd like your opinions on the benefits or otherwise of stripping all the soundproofing/ sealer off the underside and cabin floor.  I love seeing all those gleaming, painted interior panels, but mine will be covered with carpet and vinyl, so wouldn't get to enjoy it beyond a few photos, and knowing that I'd done all I can to minimise future rust of course.  And if I pull the sound proofing off, I would probably want to replace it with something, as I'm not keen on getting extra noise from the exhaust system and have panels buzzing as I cruise along.
 
I know the car's history so I'm not expecting any significant rust issues, but am considering giving it the full treatment all the same.  It's big money so I'm looking for your thoughts and experiences so that I keep things in perspective.  Recommendations on sound proofing products would be welcome too.
 
Thanks in advance.
 
P.S. if anyone in Perth has a jig available for purchase or hire, please do let me know, as that might be just the encouragement I need to do the underside.
 
 

To get the sealer off the floor I have heard of guys using dry ice to freeze it then it just lifts off with a chisel.  I did it once just with a hammer and chisel but it took a while. 
 
I would get it sand / soda blasted so you can identify any issues and fix them properly now so you don't have any future issues to deal with.
 
Good luck.
 
Matt

 
If you are going to go back to bare metal i would strip the car and send the shell off to get blasted. Forget trying to bare metal it at home using paint stripper or the electric sander. That sees most of even the keenest people loose interest and abort the project.
 
This way it will come back clean and ready for any repairs.

The pro recommended getting it sandblasted, but said it's best stripped chemically as much as possible first.  This would mean that the blaster doesn't have to work as hard at the job, meaning just a light finishing blast and hence much less chance of stretching the metal or cuts through it.  If nothing else, he said to strip the flattest sections at home, saving for the blaster all the complicated areas that are awkward to do properly and are inherently stronger due to their shape.
 
I've yet to hear of a universally approved form of blasting though.  For instance, soda blasting is said to require exceptional cleanliness afterwards or the paint won't adhere properly, sand can warp panels, plastic beads continue to appear for years afterwards (although why sand wouldn't is a mystery to me) etc.  Despite this, I'm almost certain I will have some blasting done; just don't know what kind and how extensively yet.  Anybody know how well a blaster can cut through all the junk on the underside?

What model Escort??
I think PeterM did the underside his white 2 door RS himself. Find out how he went about it.

SaggaRS

What model Escort??
I think PeterM did the underside his white 2 door RS himself. Find out how he went about it.

It's a 2 door Mk 2, which makes it a bit simpler to strip regardless of method used.  Thanks for the tip about PeterM's car.

I can only offer opinion based on my personal experience.  When building my tarmac rally car I stripped the car then had the shell sandblasted (excluding the larger flat areas that could warp).  About $550 inside and out.  I was amazed at how many suspect areas showed up after blasting.  Means more work in the short term BUT at least you know there is no rust remaining.  Remember, snad blasting (or soda blasting) will get into all the pin holes and scratches and get every bit of rust.
 
My sand blasters painted the shell in Protec Etch Pro immediately to ensure no rust regrowth.
 
It's pricey but worth it.  Makes working on the shell much nicer.

I built my own rollover jig and got busy with a wire brush and blow torch - the bottom came up trumps. I use stripper on the doors bonet and boot, and sanded the remaining panels down until I was sure it was solid.
 
Lots of work - very messy but can be rewarding :-)
 
 

If it were me I'd listen to the guys that are talking about using paint stripper or orbital sanding on the big flat panels, then blasting.I've restored a few american cars with big long quarters and no matter how good the sand blast operator is there is always room for error. Strip as much of the paint off the outside of the car as possible and then let the operator blast with garnet. Soda blasting doesnt remove rust only paint and maybe bog. Dont let the blaster do the inside of your bonnet or boot lid with his big blaster, If your going to do it right get him to use a small bottle style blaster that can be bought from trade tools etc. Blasting insides of panels like this will stencill through the inside stifner panel to the outside skin, what I'm saying is you will see the inside support panel stencil through to the outside skin 100%, trust me on this. Oh yeah and no matter how hard you try to get all the media out, you wont, it will be coming out for the whole build and longer, also just remember that the blast media may get into some areas that the paint gun may have trouble so blasting the whole inside of the car if its in good nick might be something you want to have a good think about. Also make sure all the body deadener is removed as the blast wont be very succesful at removing it, I like the idea of blow torch and scraper/wire brush but be sure to wear heavy duty gloves like welding gloves

coupe I like the idea of blow torch and scraper/wire brush but be sure to wear heavy duty gloves like welding gloves

And a respirator  There could be toxins in the deadner, especially if it's being heated by flame.