Hi All,
 
Ok the story is, i have a Ford Escort Mk2 with a 2 litre Pinto and a Weber 32/36 DGAV carby, this engine is a fresh build and the carby is new, all this was done before i bought the car, the engine had not turned over either. Ok after troubleshooting many different issues the car finally kicked over and after a little tuning it was idling fine in my garage for a few weeks. So the car takes about 30-40 seconds of cranking to get going after a few days not running the car then idles fine for about a minute or two and then suddenly dies, when i try and crank back on it sounds like it appears to start but then dies straight away. I have played around with the idle speed and idle mixture screw to no avail. I have sprayed some carby cleaner around and have also checked for leaks. A few strange things, the idle mixture screw on the carby is not a spring loaded screw and it screws right into th whole which i find weird. The next thing is that there is a spring loaded screw under the choke that i can adjust thats meant to hit to adjust the flaps but this does not seem to do too much. Another thing is i believe when the engine gets some heat and the choke opens up that the throttle tends to stick and does not feel free. Was wondering if anyone has any suggestions and you guys have been very helpful in the past.
Another quick question on either side of the carby there are 2 gold screws that can be adjusted, what is the recommended adjustment for these and what is the purpose? As these jets?
 
Happy to post photos if required.
Thanks,
 
Regards,
Yan_83

Hi mate,
 
Have you got a manual of some type?  The gregory's manual is pretty comprehensive on how to set up the carby.
 
Post some pics as they make giving advice much easier.
 
Matt

Howdy,
 
Been playing with the weber 32 on a cortina lately, have to check if you have the fuel return connected up. I think I am having a problem where the fuel return is bloked off allowing the bowl to fill too much and the engine will stall after a short time running.
Could you also be having trouble with the automatic choke?
 
The 2 gold screws are the idle jets and as far as I can tell dont need adjusting, when we loosened them off the car simply stalled.
 
Cheers,
 
Rob

If there is no spring on the idle screw you are either turning the wrong screw or it is not a new carby. If the screw IS actually screwed all the way in to enable idle you have too little timing.

Idling a fresh motor like that will stuff the ring seal.

yan_83

Hi All,

Ok the story is, i have a Ford Escort Mk2 with a 2 litre Pinto and a Weber 32/36 DGAV carby, this engine is a fresh build and the carby is new, all this was done before i bought the car, the engine had not turned over either. Ok after troubleshooting many different issues the car finally kicked over and after a little tuning it was idling fine in my garage for a few weeks. So the car takes about 30-40 seconds of cranking to get going after a few days not running the car then idles fine for about a minute or two and then suddenly dies, when i try and crank back on it sounds like it appears to start but then dies straight away. I have played around with the idle speed and idle mixture screw to no avail. I have sprayed some carby cleaner around and have also checked for leaks. A few strange things, the idle mixture screw on the carby is not a spring loaded screw and it screws right into th whole which i find weird. The next thing is that there is a spring loaded screw under the choke that i can adjust thats meant to hit to adjust the flaps but this does not seem to do too much. Another thing is i believe when the engine gets some heat and the choke opens up that the throttle tends to stick and does not feel free. Was wondering if anyone has any suggestions and you guys have been very helpful in the past.
Another quick question on either side of the carby there are 2 gold screws that can be adjusted, what is the recommended adjustment for these and what is the purpose? As these jets?

Happy to post photos if required.
Thanks,

Regards,
Yan_83

Yan,
Idle mixture screw that has no spring and screws into a hole is the correct screw on a 32/36(although there are also spring loaded ones out there), it has an o-ring that acts as a seal and stops it from turning with vibration.
 
Idle speed (throttle stop) screw is spring loaded and is located just above primary throttle shaft(not far from idle mix screw). this is minimum throttle angle at normal operating temp(choke completely off)
 
There is also fast idle adjustment screw, spring loaded and is located at auto choke housing, in between choke housing and carby body. This is an adjustment that dictates the idle speed while choke is in operation. Fast idle screw  has no effect on the choke flaps, those are controlled by auto choke bi metal strip and relavant adjustments.
 
'2 gold screws either side' are idle jet retainers/holders, not to be adjusted and must be seated all the way.
 
All of these adjustments are done at normal operating temp, some minor choke adjustments may be necessary at cold start up.
 
Cheers
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hey guys,
 
Thanks all for the replies.
 
I believe the problem to be fuel delivery related, seems when the car stalls there doesnt appear to be any fuel in the fuel filter, also when i remove the fuel line to the Carby there seems to be limited fuel getting through. I will check the line and also check the mechanical fuel pump.
 
Regards,
Yan_83

I'm having a similar problem - if the car sits for a couple of days the fuel seems to totally disappear from the fuel filter (I'm thinking it siphons back into the tank rather than evaporating).  Makes starting it quite hard.  If I check the fuel filter before starting it and there's fuel there it starts fine.
I was going to check if there's some form of check valve that I can put in the line to stop any siphoning and see if that solves the problem.

Hey Flighter.
As RS said this mixture screw is normal for this carb.
If you have played with it check where it should be for an initial setting and put it back there. (1/4 turn out 1/2 turn whatever)
Long strating will likely be your manual pump pulling fuel through again and filling the carb bowl and then getting into the motor for start.
I haven't played with a dgav for a looooong time and without knowing what the previous person has done it's hard to assess.
I sounds like it is going to be choke related.
Does it seem to happen at temp? before?
If it is choke then it could be the choke fast idle is coming off and the standard idle is not high enough.
It could be a blocked main jet so that when choke comes off its getting no fuel.
Does the car run when you start it again. Does it drive ok.
Another thing that could do it is a leaky emission tube. When the engine warms there are a couple of thermatic vacuum switches. If these switch and the is a hole or an open one the it pull air and you'll stall.
Is the vacuum advance tube connected to the carb and dizzy.
pull it off the carb and suck against the dizzy to test the diaphram in the dizzy for leak.
Are the choke flaps openening?
 
Hope this helps.
Daz.
Without seeing I