Paul,

Is that shell Platinum Blue in colour? Some of the pics look just like ones of mine. Whats the paint code on the id plates? I'd be interested as I think I've only ever seen one other Platinum Blue two dr esky.

Rhys

Rhys

I will have a squiz when I get a chance.

Rhys

Paint code is E. And remembering your car, it looks pretty close.

It also has an "R" in the chassis number as per Buds car and obviously not an RS with a 11717 (GL 2door) model number. Go figure.

OK, just started playing around with the brake conversion.
Utilising Peugeot 306 GTi-6 283/22mm rotors with RX7 calipers. With this configuration the only machining required is to redrill the PCD and take the centre bore out by 1mm.
I have made a mock up of the adapter to get a measurement of the offset to position the caliper correctly on the disc. Once finalised I will get them machined out of a solid piece of steel incorperating the offset so it should look reasonably neat
Looking at the wipe marks of the original caliper/pads, it's almost identicle. Also the distance between the steering arm is maintained as per the original so no dramas with the tie rod end ball joint.


Download Attachment: Comparison small.jpg
76.72 KB

Download Attachment: Adapter small.jpg
61.14 KB

Download Attachment: Plenty of room small.jpg
50.61 KB

Download Attachment: Close up front small.jpg
67.44 KB

Looks good Paul.

Paul,
Going by my book, paint code E is metallic frosted pine. My paint code is W.

Looks very similar though.

Well, I had all intensions of rebuilding the original RS but I will be reshelling it. I will do everything possible to replicate the original car to make it as authentic as possible. The original shell is too bent and twisted to resurect.
Albert, the pistons are 36mm which are a little small if using the standard M/C. I intend to go full pedal box setup so I can match the calliper bores to the applicable M/C to give me the results I need (0.625 at this stage). I will be using R31 callipers (38mm bore)with Alpha discs on the rear with probably a 0.750 M/C.
I have done some rough calculations but the engineer will have the final say.

Yes it was, but the R31 cals seem just as effective and maybe easier to find. They look beter too
I guess it comes down to what I can find @ the right price

Do you know the formula for Master Cylinder size v's Caliper Piston bore, I have no booster and the pedal pressure required to stop is too much. If I go to a different M/C I should be able to reduce applied pedal pressure v's clamping pressure.
There has got to be a rule of thumb out there at least.
I fear bending my brake pedal out on the track.

Mark,

If you want more clamping pressure (at the rotor) you must reduce the diameter of your M/C not increase it. The smaller M/C will give you a resulting higher line pressure as you will be exherting the same pedal force on a smaller cross sectional area. Your calliper piston bore sizes also influence pedal travel and applied effort.

Below is a spread sheet that I developed with John Alderson to give an indication of what combinations yield what line pressure outputs for a given pedal effort etc. I have only just added the pedal travel portion (may have a few gremlins). This prodominantly applies to a dual master system with a balance bar but you could use it for a single by putting the same M/C bore in for the 2.

As you will see, M/C size and pedal ratio will ultimately determine your line pressures and it's just a case of matching everything up. On the first sheet you need to put your wheel diameters, Vehicle mass, required deceleration force(G's) and the desired front to rear brake bias. Just punch in your proposed specifications on the second and have some fun

I might see if Simon will put it in the tech section when I'm sure it's right


Download Attachment: Brake torqueV2 comparrison.xls
29.7 KB