Yes.. I've decided to make it into a project.

So, I was surfing around eBay looking for something along the lines of superchargers and turbo chargers for a VT commodore. I came across what was called an electronic supercharger.

Basically, for thos that do not know what they are, they're simply an impellor, a big radial fan like a jetski motor that sits between your air filter and your intake (airflow meter if it's EFI). What it does, it basically ram more air in and increase the pressure.

Now, the ones they were selling on eBay, cost hundreds of dollars and produced about 800-900CFM (Cubic feet per minute) of airflow, which is about 335-424 liters per second... This increases the pressure by about 2 pounds per square inch, or 2 PSI.

Now, I thought, I've got this fan sitting here that's 65dB and I'm rarely going to use it in a computer... it moves 220CFM of air or 103 liters per second (618 liters per minute). So this should increase pressure by around 0.5 PSI.


Then I got to work...

So, here's a link to the fan I'm using

http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod2431.htm

Delivered to my door in WA, it cost me $50. If you're thinking about doing something similar, you'd want to look into getting a fan adapter too. Because this fan is 120mm in diametre, it's larger than most pod filter and airflow metre systems.
http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod561.htm
You'll want 2 of those.

To help make the "getto electronic supercharger" more air and water tight, you'd be looking to get some silicone spacers... or as they call them, siliceous sheets.
http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod1050.htm

Then, once you've got those, you want to go down to supercheap autos and pick up 2 air filter adapter brackets. They're the things that are a small metal tube that will fit a pod filter to and has a flat plate on one end that has four holes through it for mounting to the airflow meter.... This is it here\/
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/3061/adaptresized1vg9.jpg


With these, you want to attach them to the 80mm side of the 120mm-80mm adapters so that the rubber air hose and pod filter can attach over the ends.. Like this \/ MAKE SURE YOU PUT A SILICONE SEAL AROUND IT!
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9788/fanadpresized1zd5.jpg

Do that twice(obviously) then attach the 80-120mm adapters to the fan with the siliceous sheets between them, PLUS put some silicone in there too, because it will just make it easier now than later. It will start looking like a monster now...
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3057/compresized1pg5.jpg
[:x)]

The Blades of Doom. DO NOT PUT ANYTHING NEAR THESE BLADES WHEN IT IS OPERATING! It will cut up your finger real bad, and totally shred paper and possible break apart if anything is put into it.
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2006/bladesofdoom1kg1.jpg


There you have it, ready to be wired in... Oh mine looks a little dodgey because I put the silicone on it AFTER it was assembled, and therefore has slag allover the place... it's still a mean mother! Besides, I'm going to cover it all up with a heatshield anyway, make it look more professional in the car.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/7199/beast1nb1.jpg

[:u]

Okay... so now you've got a ready and waiting getto electronic supercharger.

Test it time.

This is a 12VDC, high speed fan. The most stupid thing you can do is run the fan directly from a computer motherboard fan terminal. If you don't know what I'm talking about, that's probably a good thing. However, I will explain anyway. On your motherboard, there is a small 3 pin connector that will match the connector on the fan lead. DO NOT ATTACH the fan to ANY of these motherboard connectors. While the 3 amps may not kill something, the siomple fact that this fan is 30 watts will cause problems with the computer.

So, to test it, you either want to plug it into a 4 pin Molex connector with an adapter (if testing using a computer like I do) OR you can cut off the 3 pin connector from the fan and put the red wire on the positive terminal of your car battery, and the black wire on the negative.


Before you do this, make sure the fan blades are clear and nothing will come in contact with them. If you've already made the GES (getto electronic supercharger) then you won't really need to worry to much about the blades. ALSO, make sure to have a steady grip on it, or it is sitting stable on a surface that is flat and it won't slide off because the torque will make it move if it isn't.


I know what you want now, you want more pictures. well, tough...

Instead I have these! Two small videos I took.


The first, is what my computer sounds like normally... nice and quiet.

http://media.putfile.com/Normal-computer-noise


This one, is a bit longer. It demonstrates how loud 65dB is and the airflow power of the GES. I used a CD of Nero to demonstrate the pressure. It held the CD onto the intake firmly and the outtake pushed the CD away very easily. The video may not demonstrate this well enough, but trust me, rarely will a computer fan actually produce enough pressure to keep a CD tightly in place.

http://media.putfile.com/Getto-Electronic-Supercharger-noisy


So, you COULD spend $300 on one from eBay to gain (what they CLAIM) to be 2psi increase... or you could spend around $100 and get one that will produce a third of the pressure increase. Third of the cost, third of the increase. OR you could make some other attachment system, and save MORE money, perhaps only $50-$70.. and have the same sort of increase... Who knows.

What Matters is, I've done this now and we shall see how it performs. [;^)]

hey if 1 fan produces 0.5 psi would 5 fans produce 2.5 psi ???
do you think it will still produce 0.5 psi with a air filter attached cos you would think it would restrict it a fare bit?

adro...

I'll be interested to see if this works.. My theory is it won't, as it wont be able to flow enough and so will acually be a restriction in the airflow, so manifold pressure will decrease not increase..

Goes somethig like at 3000 rpm your engine (4L) needs 6000L/min of air just to fill its cylinders (NA, before adding boost). Since the fan is going at 6180L/min boost will be minimal (180L/min extra air) and non existant above this rpm, as the air needs to flow faster than the fan just to fill the cylinders as normal. The electric supercharger flowing at 20,170L/min is good until over 6000 rpm (12,000 L/min)..

Prove me wrong though [88] Would be neat if you saw some gains

well.. methinks, Andrew... you're pretty right..

What I have discovered after hotwiring this into my parklight (tehehe silly I know) to get the 12VDC to run the fan at 4600rpm thus maximising it's airflow... is when the engine is idling at, say, 1000rpm... the GES kicks in and drops the revs by 800 [:u][:-(]

The car sputters and then dies. It also smells like petrol something chronic!... [8~2]

So.. that tells me, no airflow. WHY is what I want to know....

Your explanation is fairly good, Andrew, from what I've seen. However, why is it that as I increase the rev speed the drop in revs once the GES kicks in is decreased.

For example, NA the engine is revving at 2000rpm, switch on the GES it drops to around 1300rpm after an initial sputter.

2500rpm NA, GES on drops to just above 2000rpm.

3000rpm NA, GES on drops to around 2700rpm.

3500rpm NA, GES on drops to around 3300rpm.

So the higher the revs the lower the drop. Why would it die from no air when it needs air the least?


The major difference between my Getto Electronic Supercharger and the store bought ones, those ones are throttle controlled. I think I need to do something like that to my GES... throttle control.

That may take the actual cost to around the same as a store bought one.


ALSO, what I noticed upon testing the GES device, was there appeared to be a vortex being produced, that while it was stull pumping out a large amount of air, it was also producing at the centre point of the outtake, a somewhat noticable backpressure. It was strong enough that a tissue I was using to see the airflow, was actually sucked back into the metal tube itself right at the centre point.


I'm going to try and create a type of baffle to help prevent this from happening and see if this makes a difference. It may be this backpressure that's causing the lack of airflow.


It has to be this, because from what you say, Andrew, it SHOULD work, just produce such little increase in airflow above 3000rpm that it won't make much difference.....



My brain just clicked. The little airflow change is WHY above 3000rpm the revs don't drop as much... DOING!!! [88]

quote:

---

Originally posted by s_ikari2015
[br]It has to be this, because from what you say, Andrew, it SHOULD work, just produce such little increase in airflow above 3000rpm that it won't make much difference.....

My brain just clicked. The little airflow change is WHY above 3000rpm the revs don't drop as much... DOING!!! [88]

---

I actally meant over 3000 rpm it will DECREASE power as it will become a restriction..

The funny rpm issue could be the computer richening or leaning the mixture too much as a result of seeing different air flow, but who knows..

It's very very strange...

I've removed it and chalked it up to experience.

So, what I've created is a really cool impellor type thing, that, with the right car and tinkering might actually work.



Conclusion and Evaluation.

The total cost for parts was around $110. The cost in labour was around 2-3 hours including fitting. In order to make it throttle speed controlled it will take probably another $50 and 2 hours labour. This would make a total of around $160 for a Getto Electronic plus 3-4 hours fitting.

The cost for a professionally built one from eBay is around $350-$375 delivered. This comes with a throttle control setup and according to the sales pitch, can be fitted in half an hour. It also produces 3 to 4 times the airflow, and yet they still claim no ECU tampering needs to be done?[x2x] From what I've seen (I reset the engine sensors etc to see if it would help.. and it did a little) it will take some serious tuning to get it working effectively.


So, for a V6, the GES is most likely unsuitable.

For a small 4, however, it may be worth investigating [;^)] It no doubt improves airflow, and with the right setup it should work well for an inexpensive upgrade.



In my final honest opinion.... buy the one from eBay [88]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Andrew
[br]

quote:

---

Originally posted by s_ikari2015
[br]It has to be this, because from what you say, Andrew, it SHOULD work, just produce such little increase in airflow above 3000rpm that it won't make much difference.....

My brain just clicked. The little airflow change is WHY above 3000rpm the revs don't drop as much... DOING!!! [88]

---

I actally meant over 3000 rpm it will DECREASE power as it will become a restriction..

The funny rpm issue could be the computer richening or leaning the mixture too much as a result of seeing different air flow, but who knows..

---

yeah it was definately over richening the mixture, throttle control to speed down the fan would definately be necessary. [^]


What my insanely huge brain just thought... is that the airflow meter is detecting all this heaps of airflow and pressure, so it's telling the computer to pump in more fuel... however the throttle body hasn't opened any wider because the accelerator cable hasn't been pressed... therefore the increase in airflow isn't actually getting into the cylinders, and so it's flooding, and thus why it wreaked of fuel...


I'm a GENIUS!!!

my father believes that the fan itself is actually restricting the airflow.

He may also be right. Because the outlet pipe is so close to the airflow meter it may actually be preventing any flow at all. When running, if you put your hand close to the outlet pipe it stops producing any kind of serious airflow and pressure.

Perhaps if I experiment with a longer outlet pipe it may produce the results desired without flooding the engine.

I will investigate this at a later date, however.... I'll have a look at those flexible pipes...





It HAS to be one of two things...

Backpressure losing almost all airflow...

or Throttle Body butterfly valve restricting airflow in response to a sudden signal to increase fuel flow.



If it's a backpressure problem, then a long pipe will solve this. This means basically there isn't enough Air for the normal fuel flow. If the long pipe DOESN'T solve it...
Then it must be the throttle body butterfly valve not allowing enough airflow through to match the signal given by the airflow meter to increase fuel injection. Which means, not enough Air for the Increased Fuel flow.


so, either way, it's an air problem... not getting to the cylinders. And also either way, it will be solved by the use of a longer outlet pipe...
Time will tell..