the 13 x 7 will fit with the right offset
I have 205 / 60 / 13 advans on. the rear guards are rolled the fronts have twin cam flares.there is about a 10mm gap tyre to strut .the offset is critcal with trying to put 7" rims on a mk1 I have no idea what the offset is on these rims

pj
pistons are 1300cc I am not sure of the brand but they werent to expensive I think about $ 250 for the set I will find the box and let you know

juiceman
it seems to run well with the 45,s the head is well ported and I am only running standard vavles
I had it dynoed at 102 bhp @ 6250rpm
the bloke who built the motor has built hundreds of kent and other
motors and knows his stuff he is very old school

some pics of the noisy blue car (as named by my 3 yr old daughter) on the track
oran park and eastern creek

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356mal great car. Are you still using the standard gearbox? Listening to your vid first gear seems too low and then to second it bogs. A lot of the time your using the engine at low rpm. My point is if you get a close ratio box like was fitted to gt,xl capri, twincam you will be able to hold it in the power band all the way up the hill. It will go heaps faster yet. All the best with it.[^]

caprispecial
it is a standard box but it is not a gearing problem it is the diff
I dont use the car for hillclimbs very often and I had a 3.77 in and was to lazy to change to a 4.44 .
with the 4.44 the 2 x local hillclimb tracks are ideal for 2nd gear
I have just rebuilt a 3.89 for track days and will be trying it a E.C. next Saturday
mal

Mal yeh im not familiar with your hillclimb tracks so dont know what final drive you should have. I am guessing tho that with a 4.44 diff then first gear would be way too low. With the close ratio box you will be able to fully use first, second and third all the way up the hill with the engine only changing about500rpm between gears. That should be exciting.[^]

I have a close ratio box with the 2.92 1st gear in the shed I think it is from an early cortina. but at the moment I am enjoying the c.s.c.a supersprints and the standard box seems to work ok .to change gearboxes I will need a new clutch ( approx $400 ) because the splines are different and I have already spent plenty on this car.
for now I will put up with it as it is and maybe one day I will change it all over
first time out I lapped oran park g.p. in 1.29 wakefield in 1.18 and eastern creek in 2.03
it still has room for improvement I have done a bit more suspension work and hope to go better at eastern creek this Saturday

Hey I was just wondering how you where running your booster if at all you are? Or are you running a remote one? I was just wondering as I plan to build a fair pokey 1600 with twins soon, so I just need a few tips on the stopping side of things. Mainly street use, but some track aswell, so the brakes dont have to be overkill.

Still love ya car, too bad I didn't get any hotwires, but I got some 4-spokes instead, and they'll look the goods.

Cheers, Mitch

phantom
the brakes are standard mk2. discs front drums rear
ebc green pads on the front and competion shoes on the rear
I have an adjustable pedal box and no booster.
I have had no trouble with brake fade even after 6 laps of oran park
mal

mgcc newcastle I run in the csca supersprints they are well run and good value
250 lb front coil overs
standard rear springs lowered

Mal, the Cortina box should fit with no changes to clutch, as long as it is not the 2 litre box (they had 1" spline, Cortina/Escort have 7/8").
Only problem with the Cortina box and a Escort bellhousing is the input shaft will be 15mm too short, but I think that it will be OK. Otherwise use the Cortina hydraulic clutch setup.
The gear lever is also about 1.5" further back than the regular Escort box which looks like it is still in there judging by the gear lever location.

You'll find the close ratio is better, as it will stay on the cam and won't bog. Close ratio + 4.44 = a good hill climb weapon.

How did that 3.9 go? Hopefully it was useable?