ok! fibreglassing is being organised very soon.
once the fibreglass enclosure has been made i'll send the car off to get the final paint touched up (engine bay respray, cage resprayed, fibreglass enclosure sprayed and all minor scratches fixed)

fitted the 5 leafs in the back tonight, and also contacted "Rod-Tech" a machine shop that is going to restud the drums and axles back to the Escort 4x108 for a good price! i'll probably get the tailshaft shortened at the same time too.

once thats all done i'll probably be rebuilding the 5 speed before it goes back in as i'm not too sure about third gear. anyone know where to get rebuild kits for the celica? sprints?

thats enough to keep me going for a bit!

dammit sunlight where are you when i need you?

dummy fitting the engine and 5 speed soon, see how everythin lines up (crossmember etc) then i can whip it out, respray and go full steam ahead fittin parts, fibreglass the rear, paint it up, then the fuel inject [:p] can't wait!!!! if anyone has a haltech or wolf ECU you need to get rid of i am in need of it! will pay wat its worth........ aiming to hav it driveable by the end of the year providing i dont hav the troubles rs2000mk2 (Rhys) did with his RS injec setup [xx(]

not relli any point takin any pics as i haven't made much progress. just stripped the engine bay ready for paint.

big ups to my momma n her home style cookin!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When you are building the sub box, it needs to be ridgid enough so it doesnt viabrte and souldn "tinny". I would look at using 18mm craft wood/ ply and put a layer of fiberglass over that, Not just a couple of layers of fiber glass or the box will "ring".
Just my oppinion thou.[%]

quote:

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Originally posted by darnoldrs
[br]When you are building the sub box, it needs to be ridgid enough so it doesnt viabrte and souldn "tinny". I would look at using 18mm craft wood/ ply and put a layer of fiberglass over that, Not just a couple of layers of fiber glass or the box will "ring".
Just my oppinion thou.[%]

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thanks i'll keep that in mind. i am trying to find a balance between weight and strength. thats the problem with everything!! the stronger i make it (driveline etc) the heavier it gets

If you are after light then use fiberglass with a 16-18mm layer of foam (for fiberglass) in between. that will be light and should be enough to stop the box from resanating maybe.

quote:

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Originally posted by darnoldrs
[br]If you are after light then use fiberglass with a 16-18mm layer of foam (for fiberglass) in between. that will be light and should be enough to stop the box from resanating maybe.

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david when you say "use fiberglass with a 16-18mm layer of foam " do you mean between coats or just once the enclosre is finished use dampening foam / sound deadener on the inside?

i am currently faced with 3 options.

* wooden skeleton, and stretch fabric over (like in the model) then resin (makes the fabric rock hard) then fibreglass whole sheet layer, fibreglass shredded criss cross layer, whole sheet layer, criss cross layer etc, sand back, body filler, high build primer filler, rub bak prep for paint.


* pay my mate $150 to make a giant mould out of foam (polystyrene) hand carved and then covered with gel coat, fibreglass (sheet layer, criss cross etc) sand back, body filler, high build primer filler, rub bak prep for paint.

* pay my mate $150 to make a giant mould out of foam hand carved and then covered with gel coat, fibreglass. pop the fibreglass off, cover with gel coat release, fibreglass inside layer, pop out then glass it to a wooden skeleton then follow previous steps to paint.

as you can see they are in order of $$$'s.

i am strongly opting for option number 1. who here on the forum has worked with fibreglass? i've only done stuff like....cup holders

What they call foam sandwedge. It is a polyureathane foam sheeting. make the box out of it then put a layer (or 2) on the inside of the box and on the out side of the box to make it very rigid. witha sub box you MUST have it solid so it can not vibrate. teh best thing to use for sub boxes is concreate but that might be a touch heavy.[:u] You wont get the mold/gel coat finish but nothing a bit of hifill primer and paint wont fix.
It will be a lot easier than making a plug, then ,mold, then taking a box from that, however at $150 for your mate to do it i would go withthat as it sounds quite cheap.
or jsut go back to a timber box, which is all i will be doing and cover it with backless carpet to finish it off.
Enjoy.

quote:

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Originally posted by darnoldrs
[br]What they call foam sandwedge. It is a polyureathane foam sheeting. make the box out of it then put a layer (or 2) on the inside of the box and on the out side of the box to make it very rigid. witha sub box you MUST have it solid so it can not vibrate. teh best thing to use for sub boxes is concreate but that might be a touch heavy.[:u] You wont get the mold/gel coat finish but nothing a bit of hifill primer and paint wont fix.
It will be a lot easier than making a plug, then ,mold, then taking a box from that, however at $150 for your mate to do it i would go withthat as it sounds quite cheap.
or jsut go back to a timber box, which is all i will be doing and cover it with backless carpet to finish it off.
Enjoy.

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hav decided to go with option number 1. progress update as soon as i get the skeleton fabricated
Shea

Hey Shea long time no talk ay. well it seems likes its all working out for these days a bit of a shame i wont be around to help or hinder your progress. Goodluck with all the work your doing to it. It seems you have got your self a nice plan and i hope you got it done by january so you can take me for a ride if im back in town...lol [;^)]

thanks mate, see if we can tee it up so we go to an Escort cruiz in an Escort.....