ah thanks for those links, i'll give em a good sit down read soon, gotta revise all this week[8~2]

haha im not giving up so easy, been at it for a few months now[;^)][88][B)] but i will, i got a guy the trucky recomended cumin to have a look soonish. he is gonna double check boostworx wireing etc.

anyway, cheers

surely the evo has inspired you......

quote:

---

Originally posted by sundowner
[br]surely the evo has inspired you......

---

haha too right, i want a cossie now to beat it![:p]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Andrew
[br]

quote:

---

Originally posted by RS2000mk2
[br]andrew i got a few questions i will send via email soon but one i'll ask now is what do you do to the board to convert it to fuel only? (yeh it has come to it[:(!])

---

The manual is here
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtabcon.htm

specifically this page will tell you what your board needs
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm

Have a go with electronic ignition, its not that hard. If after a few hours your not getting tach then give up, don't accept defeat so easy

---

hmm so i had a brief read of that whole document (bottem one) and i admit i have a prity bad understanding of electrics but i could not find where it says or what to do about converting it to spark only?? any chacne of a hint? is it a Matter of jumping a few certain diodes??

any help appreciated greatly!




cheers
Rhys

quote:

---

50. Next you need to make a decision. There are two input circuits for the tach signal:

* The Hall/optical/etc. circuit takes the square wave input from a Hall sensor, optical sensor, or points. It can also be used for triggering off the coil (but only if you are not controlling ignition timing).
* The VR circuit takes the AC signal from a variable reluctor sensor and converts it to a square wave for use by MegaSquirt.

The Hall circuit can be built two ways - for a digital signal such as a Hall sensor or optical sensor (step 50.a.) or for a coil negative terminal (50.b.). these are the same circuit, but different components.

[blah blah blah...]

#50b For triggering off the coil negative terminal/points:

1. Install and solder R12 {390H-ND, 390 Ohm, ½ watt, orange-white-brown}. This is installed between the resistors you have just been installing and the CPU socket. This resistor should be mounted roughly 1/8" (2mm) above the surface of the PCB. Also, the value of this resistor may have to be changed if you trigger from the negative side of the coil depending on application - start with the supplied value, and if gets hot while the engine is running, then increase the value, in steps, up to 10K (like 470 Ohms, 560 Ohms, 680 Ohms, 1K, ...), or even more in some applications (consult the MegaSquirt Forums list for advice). However, do not adjust this resistor on assembly, unless you have a good reason to do so.
2. Install and solder R13 {4.7KEBK-ND, 4.7k, yellow-violet-red}. This is located 3 places close to the heat sink than R12 (which you just installed).
3. Install and solder D1 {1N4001DICT-ND}. This is the famous Wing Diode - you will want this if you are triggering off the negative side of the coil - such as with points (reduces tach signal false-triggering).
4. In the place of D2, install a 22V or 24V Zener diode {1N4748ADICT-ND}, in the reverse of the indicted orientation (i.e., put the band at the other end rather than that indicated on the silk screen). Note that the stim will not be able to send a signal through this diode. If you have installed it, jumper it for operating on the stim.
5. Install/solder opto-isolator U3 {160-1300-5-ND, 4N25). This is located near the center of the PCB. If you have bought a socket (AE7300-ND or AE10021-ND ) for this component, solder it in place instead, then insert U3 into the socket. Observe the proper orientation (notch matches PCB - towards the heat sink, or dot for pin #1 which is the square pad on PCB at the notched end of the silk screen). If neither are there, hold the chip so that the writing is facing you and the right way around. Pin #1 is on the bottom left.
6. Install and solder C11 {399-2075-ND or 399-4326-ND, 0.01µF, 103 marking}. This installs at the top of the row of 'vertically' oriented capacitors above "Bowling" in the copyright notice.
7. If you are going to use the negative side of the coil to trigger MegaSquirt (I.e., you are not using ignition timing control), then install and solder C30 {399-2083-ND or 399-4353-ND, 0.22µF, 224 marking}.
8. If you are going to use the negative side of the coil to trigger MegaSquirt (I.e., you are not using ignition timing control), then install and solder C12, the Ed capacitor (399-2017-ND, 0.001 µF, 102 marking}. This is located above "Bowling" in the copyright notice. The value of this capacitor may need to be increased if there are noise problems with the tach signal - values up to 0.1uf will work. The 0.001uf value is a good starting point.

---

Do compare that lot with what you have already yourself but from what i can see from the pics you emailed you need to:

Install a 22/24V zener diode in D2 (step 4)
Install c12 (step 8)
Install c30 (step 7)

you're decided on fuel only are you? [V][V]

quote:

---

Originally posted by RS2000mk2
[br]

haha too right, i want a cossie now to beat it![:p]

---

...Now that you are talking the correct language; I can hear you.

andrew, well right now i am going with it, i just dont know why it isnt doing spark? michael did every thing you suplied him with and it was still not registering the rpm signal with in Ms unit itself???? and he has had a electrician go over the wireing saying it is all correct??? had the dizzy tested and that is all fine? so i am left at a stumps end?




the trucky when droping my car off gave me the number of some apparent wizz with this kinda poo poo, not technically MS but he knows fuel injection. i may call him and get him out to have a browse at it. but i am far from optimistic that ever seeing it running fuel AND spark together will ever happen...

this is why i feel that fuel only with points for now would be the best option? would with any luck get it on the road as soon as i can find time to work on it...


yeh so basically im clutchin at anything now just to see it run again!


mark, haha its a pipe dream but one day..........[:p]

cheers
Rhys

Rhys where you up to with it?. what's the deal?

If your first time with it i'd suggest going fuel only, download megatune version 2 not 2.25 after coming back into it i must admit 2.25 has a poo poo load more features, half you wont need but the menus are spread out over 2 or 3 which makes it confusing.
I have an old firmware too if you need and probably use my old MS file to get it running.
FFS buy a relay box and be done with it also a stimulator and test it.
Relax box is the go and will sort most of you wiring probs, tach signal should run run from the + or - from the coil. one wire simple.

Have you read step by step through the build manual? and checked off everything after you check and tripple check it?

Rhys i've just re read the build manual, check the correct tach signal line is connected. This could be it if the bloke who built yours didn't bother to hook anything up.. it didn't occur to me at the time as by default it should be wired up correct, but worth a check..

quote:

---

For the VR sensor:

* Jumper VRIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB (near the DB37, opposite the heat sink.)
* Jumper TSEL to VROUT (Or VROUTINV if you want the VR input to be inverted) on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.


OR (Do NOT install both sets of jumpers, chose one set or the other!)
For the Hall sensor, optical sensor, coil negative terminal or points:

* Jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket,
* Jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink.
* Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.

---

They are all on the bottom of the pcb. They decide which of the circuits is used, you want the 'Hall sensor, optical sensor, coil negative terminal or points' one, whichever method you choose. If these are missing, your hall dizzy will start working!!

There is also a note to read, basically double check step 52 in the build manual is all correct.. but this could be it