Hi guys,
 2 quick questions 72 V6 Capri.
 Can I remove the sump by itself in the car without the engine to replace the sump gasket?
 I have a 72 V6 and had a 70 V6. Just wondering which way the engine mount metal cups go? On the 70 one the metal cups were on the bottom facing up with the rubber round engine mount inside. On my current 72 V6 the round rubber engine mount is on the bottom with the metal cup facing down over the top of it. Just wanting to know which is correct and does it matter.
  Thank you Paul

Hi Paul
ENG Mt cups sit on top of mounts to protect rubber from extractors heat , and not ship water which they would below.
I recall very little room between sump and x member so I'm guessing you'd have to loosen both mounts and crane engine up as far as poss if you're feeling lucky, or you think rest of engine is so perfect, you can't justify its removal, which would be rare. If sump only is leaking, the others will leak as soon as you fix sump........ask MURPHY for 2nd opinion !
BERNIE

Thanks Bernie,
  You've answered both my questions, at least the cups on my current car are the right way so that saves me a job. 
  There are other slight oil leaks in the engine but thought I would start with the sump. I suppose I'll do them all now.
      Thanking You Paul.

V6 sump wont clear the X-member.  You need to disconnect the mounts and lift the engine with a crane.

Thanks all 

My 72 has cups on the bottom.  Given how deep they are maybe they are intended to support the sides of the mounts to minimise how far they deform.
 
My mechanic tried to do sump gasket by lifting engine but gave up and decided to remove engine.

GTV6
the cups would work up or down if they were there to help minimize rubber deformation; but theyre not.
Cups on bottom will just promote rust as they fill up with water and debris and do nothing to protect rubber 
mounts against extractor heat.
Bernie
 

Heat shields are usually made from a light weight, reflective material and are installed to allow air flow around the item being shielded.  Since these are thick metal, painted black, and are a tight fit over the mount which prevents air flow and would trap heat I very much doubt they have anything to do with heat protection.
 
I suspect they are the first design iteration of what is now known as an engine mount support cup, which became standard on mk3's and are available from Burtons and others as after market spares.  The current ones are full depth but ours are only half depth so they would have been installed to give the mount support where its needed, which is where the lever arm is the greatest, which is at the cross member end facing up.
 
Since they are a snug fit, coated and installed at an angle the chance of water ingress and corrosion would be minimal.  The weight of the engine on the mount is causing a tight seal at the bottom.  After 10 years as a daily driver mine didn't have any rust.
 
If ours were to be installed at the engine end facing down, it would effectively stiffen the top half of the mount making the sheering at the cross member end worse, and if extractor heat was a problem, which based on the distance apart I doubt, they would trap heat and cook the top of the mount.
 
 
 

Don’t agree with heat side of your post Gtv6 but the support at the bottom where it’s needed I do. Heat will dissapate either way but forces at the bottom will be greater than up top.

Think about how it cools once the engine is shut down.  If the cup is at the top and has been heated by the extractors, the cup would have to cool before the mount under it starts to cool, so the cup will retain the heat at the mounts surface while it slowly cooks .... I mean cools.