I remember what you said about the brown one I got from central NSW when I picked the roof up. I’m thinking the same about you on this one. Please it could only get better if you said it’s numbers matching. Love it and well done.

Those Apillars look rust free. Wouldn’t even remove the guards on that one. Sand blast the outside and go. By the way I have a roof if you need one.

yes- all the numbers match
 
Im thinking of buying a blaster - im a bit time poor so may help to get thru them all

I don't know how you do it Spud, yes you can definitely smell them out.
 
Having said that, I did see a 2 door Mk2 Escort in a backyard on the weekend, but that was pure chance.
It seems like you find a new car every month

My Sand blaster is my best tool. Make a lance and then all your panels are rust free. I use a dried washed sand from bunnings and it won’t rust afterwards as their is no salt left in it. Saves hours and hours but it’s messy.

ok - I wasn't sure what media I would be using - thinking of getting a "rapid blast" unit from south Australia (aust made)
I will hopefully be v good - put them on the rotisserie, blast the sub floor, boot, cabin & engine bay  - then into etch - make it quick with a very clean result ..
I started scotch briting this car - it'll take a while - yeesh!

I wouldn't be using sand on panels, there is probably a good reason why the pros use garnet, wall nuts etc.  My guess is if too heavy it could generate too much heat and distort panels. 
 
Pretty sure you don't need to etch after blasting as blasting provides the key.  The guys over here diamond bead blast and then apply 2 pac primer.
 
If you use phosphoric acid with your scotch pads it will be faster and be treating at the same time.  Again don't etch an acid treatment.  Pics are before and after of a test section I did on an mg guard years ago, just scotch pad and diluted acid.  Sometimes it goes a bit yellow, sometimes purple.
 

thanks for that - yes I might steer away from sand - esp on the external panels (sub floor etc might be ok) - take your point re the subsequent primer.
 
 I also found the acid was good on light rust - my panel beater uses the acid, quickly wipes it off (very clean) with a damp rag, drying it was we go, then into etch. hes very fussy and has been at it for a while so ive been towing the line (the purpling does look good)

Their is no issue using sand. If you read the text books you should never blast both sides of the same panel as it will distort. None of this really is an issue with a small sand blaster. Also garnet being tougher will make the issue worse not better. I have garnet but I prefer sand and used three or four times it becomes finer and pits less. The pits just make a good key for primer but I would still etch prime regardless.

Thanks wiggy

I've started using various rust removal products I had lying around

The one on the right was by far the best. The rust has bitten in at points- the pic of the quarter shows the result after one application (leaving it for 31/2 hours to do its thing)
It's taken approximately half the rust off leaving a clean finish. I'll buy some more tomorrow and keep going.
It's nice and quiet (the missus doesn't realise I'm working on the car) and very easy to use.

I'll still blast the boot, cabin and engine bay