Yeh I guess I was counting on that measurement coming from an un-modified spring seat.
That head measurement can vary too much from head planing to valve seat install hieght etc.
If from a somewhat stock setup I could find that tip to spring seat it will tell me where my setup is at.
 
Thanks all the same fro lookin that up.

As I stated I have never studied the Des Hammill book in great detail.   The references basing measurements on the surfaces of a std head are a concern right from the start, as due to production tolerance no 2 heads are the same.  The factory geometry is all over the shop, and castings vary heaps, valve heights change dramatically etc etc etc.  And chances are you engine has had valves, seats cut or other work carried out at some point is time, so sho knows where things are set now.
 
IMO when doing an engine or cam package the geometry should always done valve by valve for each individual engine, and IMO the only way to do it correctly is with the cylinder head off the car.  That is why when building a decent head that great detail needs to be paid to the valve heights, lengths etc to ensure that they're in the right spot before you even begin trying to get the valve train correct.
 
2 things concern me with what you're trying to do here.
1.  You have no idea of your valve train geometry, valve lengths etc etc.  Chances are it's wrong.  That will either give you bad performance, or poor reliablilty (most likely both).
2.  You have no idea what spring rates you require, or what you have now, or whether the springs you have fitted are even the correct ones for the application. 
 
IMO first of all I would remove the cylinder head and set it up properly.  That will then put your valve where it needs to be height wise. 
Then work out what installed spring height you have (check all 8 of them individually)
Contact Newman for the required spring rates.
Find a valve spring that matches as closely as you can the installed height, and spring rates required, and purchase them rather than try and make something substandard work.
If you need more installed height purchased a set of stepped retainers or have your head machined to suit.
If you need less installed height purchase shims to suit.
 
If you're not confident in setting it up it might be an idea to give it to someone who can, otherwise it will more than likely end in tears.
 
The stepped retainers I have give you .120" extra installed height.
 
Cheers
Woz
 

Hi wozzah.
I understand. My mechanic friend is going to test the springs to find out what i have.
I guess in my current situation. I have a lot of work to do to a new house and i need to get the car out of the picture. having got it drive-able i don't want to shelve it now.
In 6 months or so and I have a garage to work in and some garage building and landscaping out of the way it really won't bother me to take the head of and start from scratch. But now - I just want it going.
As long as it doesn't disintegrate, which my friend will ensure it doesn't, i'll be happy for now.
Just his specialty is Triumphs and not escorts.
 
I do appreciate your advice and I have been facing the idea of head removal.

Ok so - Seems the cam i had, did not have 474 thou lift after all. This meant that the Newman ph4 did not go straight in.
Investigating further found that between valve binding and stem seals I had only 430 thou tops to play with.
So ..... rather than go back a step on cams .... I made the decision yesterday.
The head is now off and at the machinist to have the spring seats machined to fit the phase4.

Ok I am really in a pickle with this cam.
How on earth does anyone get this cam in this head?????
 
Apparently the place who did my valve seats some years ago, did a very nasty job - inluding not installing the valve guides they were supposed to and i payed for.
 
So now I have had the valves re-seated and the place tried to get me some more valve travel in the process. I get the head back with 520 thou valve travel (cam is 474). I put 2 followers in to find I am still getting stem seal bind and not enough clearance on the springs.
I am told they need 2.5mm more clearance and this is too much to take out of the valve seats.
Or that I need 113mm long valves (mine are 109.5) 
All of the valves I look at are 111.5 or shorter except stock ones that are 113.
 
What do I do???
 

This thread is lonely!
Fitting stock valves at the moment to test length but certain I am going to have to fit new valves.
Choosing between burtons group1 or ferrea 6000 series valves.
Damn shame to get rid of my custom ones :-(