ok mk1 should be at home finally within a few weeks, first step is to strip and rust proof i need to no what works how to do it ect im very noob when it comes to body work

cheers luke

surly someone knows?

http://www.ppc.au.com/restoration.htm

That's one way to do it.

I'm aware of three different types of protection. Galvanising, barrier protection and cathodic. You could get the car hot gal dipped but chances are it'd never be the same shape again. POR15 is a barrier type one and is what i'm using along with fishoil in the chassis rails and other areas that I can't get to. Cathodic ones are the ones that run a charge through the car.

Easiest way to have a rust free car is to buy a Mini Moke that came galvanised from the factory.

haha yeah true! thanks for that, so basicly if i paint thee common rust areas with por15 thats about the best i can do without spending a fortune.

Rust Bullet is the best stuff I have come across and it is guaranteed for 10 years in salt water and you can spray or brush it on.

where and how much could i get that for?

Here's another one.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

This is an interesting read.

http://www.marinecorrosionforum.org/explain.htm

Hi, from experience, and I am a bit old fashion on this topic, with several older cars I have found the following. If is it significant (holed teh panel) you need to treat rust like cancer - if in doubt cut it out!

Other wise the following option might be useful.

-wire wheel on a 4in grinder isn't bad for flaky surface rust but it pays to treat with deoxidene after;
-plain old solder works well but need to be careful of heat (very useful in around window apertures, etc. Some guys also use nickel bronze but this is more limiting due to heat - but a good option in some structural areas;
-deoxidene (phosphorous acid) works well on light surface rusted panels;

Resist filling rusted areas with bog.

After you have dealth with the rust, by far the best option i have found to protect ext panels is 2k epoxy primer. You do need to apply to bare metal. It doesn't seem to allow the rust to creep under the paint even when chipped back to the bare metal.

Internal channels, sills, sections, crevices between panels, etc -clean thoroughly and then apply a penetrating rust proofing product. I thin and heat the product before applying - just to be sure. Suggest going to a specialist automotive paint place. Smells a bit initially but that soon goes.

Well those options have worked for me in the past.

Hope this helps.
Ian

yeah does thanks heaps, luckly there is 1/5 of f*ck all rust in it thank god, was very lucky with the shell