Just after a bit of advice from the brain trust.
 
I'm due a new head gasket in the RS, it still needs removal and inspection but at very least a new cam is in order. It was showing some signs of wear last time I looked so while I'm there...
 
Any tricks to know for the changeover? Is there a 'running in' procedure once fitted? Any reference pages to read?
 
Any advice welcomed. Cheers.

If changing a cam over get the bearings looked at, they only cost about $50 set of 3, but fitting is expensive. Also get new rockers and definitely a new spraybar as this is the life of the cam.
I was told there is a break in for cams by running the engine at 3k for 10mins, I've never done this personally because general driving will do this for you... I don't think the factory revved the engine for 10-15 mins on every pinto engined car, just silly !!
Some say running in the cam puts a hard coating on it, it already has this coating from the cam producer. I've never seen benefits from doing this as a pinto life is generally around 100K km at the most these days so just take care of it with oil changes each 5-10k km and you'll not need worry.
Just keep the tappets from chatting as best you can for the first few hundred Ks, this means checking cam to rocker gap often, keeping it as specification tolerances is the best at reducing wear.

Thanks Marty just what I needed to know.

Hi Drew
Marty is 100% spot on.   Before starting to fit Head to block, check "flatness" of both Head and Block regardless of alleged advice that "it's all done". Check your "STRAIGHT-EDGE TOOL" for its own straightness first.
Of the hundreds of head replacements I've ever done, NOT once have I installed the head gasket without a thin haze of "Hylomar" Spray-on, on both sides of Gasket, regardless of how vintage or modern the engine, regardless of the Gasket Manufacturers advice NOT to use any such supplement. I've NOT ONCE had a come-back to re-work.  The same vehicles returned for regular service for many years ongoing.
If your head bolts are original "non-stretch" and the Shop Manual mentions nothing of replacing them, then Ive always re-used them. Ensure ALL Bolts and Bolt Holes are clean. Insert all in their appropriate Holes till "home" and ensure distance from Bolt-Head underside to Deck is LESS than thickness of Head, taking Washer into account if one is used.
Unftntly all "modern" vehicles that we get thru our shop, have "stretch bolts" to ensure extracting more $$$$$ out of the consumer.
Check to see if ANY Head Bolts penetrate water jacket. If so, ensure to apply Cement to top 3 or 4 threads of BOLT that can be seen via "witness marks" to engage Head.
Before starting the engine, COAT thinly ALL metal friction points with Colloidal Graphite or Copper-coat or any ANTI-FRICTION coating. 
Before Starting the engine, full of fresh correct oil and filled new oil filter, TURN THE ENGINE OVER 720 degrees BY HAND AT THE CRANK BOLT (NEVER AT THE CAM). This not only starts to prime the oil galleries, but allows you to ENSURE you have correct VALVE TIMING as you'll feel a "clunk" as rotation stops if wrong. If done slowly, no damage is likely to occur. and you have a damage-free chance to re-set the Valve timing correctly.............. And enjoy that beer/bourbon !
IF NOT RIGHT, PISTONS WILL CRASH INTO OPEN VALVES AND LIKELY RUIN EVERYTHING except the Crank !
Never assume you have a NON-INTERFERENCE ENGINE.
I learned this lesson the hard way as a 17 y/o know-it-all, and have seen over-confident backyard Mechanics repeat this error too many times always ending in ruined engines. Lucky it was my car I ruined the engine on and not a client's. 
MINERAL OIL IS CHEAP. CHANGE EVERY 5000 KMS OR 12 MTHS
SYNTHETIC OIL IS EXPENSIVELY SUPERFLUOUS IF NOT MANDATED AND MINERAL OIL IS.
.
Any of my vehicles mandated for Synthetic get changed every 10,000 kms to err on the side of "i-cant-be-F$#@&%-rebuilding" an oil-deprived engine, for the sake of 5,000 or 10,000 extra clicks
New Filter every time. Fill it with oil before installing; if design allows (as in filter thread faces UP.)
Except Essex V6 where a CORRECT "Z38"(2724E6714C) with CENTRE TUBE, allows a lot of oil to go in before installing .

Well said BEEVEE,. I'm quite sure pinto motors are non interference. My ex has/had a mk1 Escort with a pinto which I built a slappa motor for it , the cam was a regrind with std lift but with 285° duration , it went really well until the cam belt snapped on her while doing 90 in 4th, no damage done whatsoever.. I repaired it on the side of the road which was amazing in it's self with limited tools onboard. I thought all the valves would be boomerangs but not the case lol.

Always check your timing and crank over by hand to make sure nothing fouls or locks up

Cheers guys, heads back on now with all the appropriate steps taken and it seems to be running nicely.
As for the cam, well that will have to be another day. The compressions even but a bit down and after looking at the bores I reckon its almost time for a rebuild, nothing too bad I'll keep the car on the road over summer and do a rebuild in the quiet of winter. 
With a few bucks saved on the cam for now I had a custom, three core, copper radiator built to see it into the future.
Wasn't cheap though, I'll be eating vegemite sanga's for smoko for a while. 
 
 

Nice to see a copper radiator doing the rounds as everything is alloy these days.
I had a copper one made for the Capri, more cause it would look funny having this shiny alloy unit in a 50+ old year car.

I visited a few shops before I found a tradesman that'd do it. They all looked looked at me blankly and just said "Nah can't get cores for them anymore" code word for can't be bothered. I plonked the radiator on this guys counter and his first words were " ahh 2 litre Escort, don't see many of those anymore" I knew I'd found the man for the job...