Hi everyone,
 
Long-time lurker, first time poster. First of all, just a massive thanks to everyone that contributes to this forum. I've found the information very useful in my first restoration attempt. I've not owned an Escort before, always wanted one when I was young, but only really had the opportunity now.
 
A bit of background, earlier this year I bought a four door Mk1 off a bloke that was halfway into a Pinto turbo project with a type9 gearbox and left it sitting for 10 years. Lots of parts missing, but that's the fun of buying someone else's project car! I've been undoing some of the work to convert to an N/A pinto as original as needed to get ready for a roadworthy and mod plate.  I've only scratched the surface of the resto with electronic distributor, light weight alternator, big bore exhaust manifold, rebuilt carby, brake master cylinder and servo. Most of my time has been spent learning. It'll eventually be used for fast road, a little gymkhana, unlikely to see much track work. Suspension, brakes, diff, etc is still all stock 1.3 set-up at the moment, but I'll look to upgrade as needed to pass engineering.
 
I've uploaded a couple of before pics, mostly rust free except for spare wheel well and a bit of light damage front passenger side. I had a couple of questions I was hoping I could get some insights into which I think will help me progress further:
- Engine mounts - not sure it's clear in the attached img_0570, but the original mk1 mounts were used and the cross member was slotted to fit these with the Pinto. Is this a common approach? Should there be the angle of the mounts? Should I purchase some RS2000 or other engine mounts instead? How much room should there be between the back of the motor and the firewall?
- Radiator - have trimmed back the radiator shroud to fit a larger Airtec radiator, but the inner front panel has a support in the middle which the radiator fouls on (see img_0693). Am I okay removing the front panel support, if so is there any additional support I need to add back onto the front panel? I still need to do the radiator cut-out panel to make the radiator fit too.
- Fuel return - any need to run a fuel return line with the low pressure mechanical pump? I'm presuming not as I've seen a few pinto conversions on here without them.
- Emissions and vacuum - one of the missing items is the air cleaner set-up, which I was just going to replace with an aftermarket (e.g. ramflo) filter. Anyone had any issues getting a roadworthy without the stock set-up given it seems to be part of the vacuum/emissions system. Also do I need the charcoal canister for the roadworthy, again thinking not as I haven't seen it on many conversions. If I do, any aftermarket ones that could be used?
- Roadworthy and mod plate contacts around Brisbane - would love some contact details of people that do both as I'd be keen to talk to them before going too much further. I've looked and contacted a few engineers, but haven't had much luck getting responses.
 
Many thanks,
Neil
 

G'day Neil, glad you can join us.
Do you want to try again with the photo's, as it seems we all enjoy seeing pics.
 
 

Thanks Deano, not the best start! I've tried attaching a couple of images, hopefully it works this time.
Fresh out of the shed where I bought it -

After a very quick clean -

Engine mounts, don't think this is right -

Front panel support, if I remove any support I need to add back in?

Thanks, Neil

Hello and welcome
Those engine mounts are from the original 1300 , so I gather the owner didn't know it didn't have the correct escort round rubber ones. You can dodge a bullet by buying Landrover V8 rubber mounts and replacing the square rubber (keeping the mount) and it'll be fine and strong.
Rad support bar can be removed but it doesn't need to with a pinto, just trim the top of the slam panel so the rad sits nice. When I did my first pinto in mk1 swap I took the radiator to the shop and simply got the tangs sweated off and swapped around..btw I used a mk2 cortina radiator as it holds more fluid.
Fuel return, not until about 1976 Ford started to consider a return line so it's up to you.
The gap at the back of the motor depends on the lean it's sitting on, ie, Cortina sump will raise the engine tilting it back towards the bulkhead. The ideal space is about 30mm which gives plenty of spanner room at the back !
Enjoy your new project and keep us updated or even start a project thread, plenty of helpful people here 😎👍

Thanks marty, appreciate the advice and am enjoying your latest project!
I've got a few sets of engine mounts for the 2L which I'll try out. I'm probably a bit closer than 30mm, likely because it is a cortina motor so good to know!
Radiator was cactus unfortunately, so I shelled out on an Airtec which is a bit thicker and is probably why I'm having issues with the front panel. I'll give it another crack, but likely be whipping out the angle grinder on the support.
I've had some interesting times with a rewire for the alternator (gone denso style), coil and distributor as there were a few chopped wires. If anyone needs a hand with what wire is what in the engine bay, I've got the mk1 wiring diagram. Finding an alternator bracket that fits has been fun though...
Last time working on the car I threw a set of pacemaker headers in and reinstalled the rebuilt brake set-up, inlet manifold and rebuilt carby:

 Unfortunately the car lives a few hours away as I just don't have the space, so progress will be crazy slow. Hoping it'll be running around February, will see how that works out!
Thanks, Neil

I can't believe it's been more than a year since I did a project update! A few things happening getting in the way of progress, but that's life.
 
I've been able to get out and work on the car for a few days here and there, it's now turning over freely by hand and off the starter. It had sat for quite a while and was a bit hesitant, but took my time and all good.
 
It's got fuel and spark, so next trip will be a test start and get the timing set-up. I've really just been looking to get it in a state that's mechanically solid as there was a lot either half done or in a bad way from sitting around.
 
In terms of what has been done over the last year, not a lot unfortunately. It's amazing how much time I spend just trying to find a $2 part! Anyway, here's the main things:

• Mk1 capri front struts, discs and calipers which were refurbished, machined and rebuilt
• Am using the old springs that came with the capri struts, probably look to get some new lower springs but wanted to see how it went first
• Rebuilt brake master cylinder and booster
• Adjustable gaz front dampers installed
• New tie rod ends, TCAs, steering boots, wheel bearings
• Refurbished anti-roll bar
• Similar story on the back, gaz adjustable rear dampers and 1 inch lowering blocks
• Refurbished rear suspension mounts and checked all bushes, surprisingly okay
• New brake drums, shoes, cylinders and rear brake line
• Refurbished the air cleaner set-up
• Replaced fuel pump
• Removed interior, amazingly only one hole in the passenger foot well
• Installed battery in the boot
• New speedo cable
• New alternator and RS2000 mount (what a pain to find those)
• New ignition coil
• New distributor
• New throttle cable
• And lots of cleaning

 
Once it's successfully fired up, I'll need to rerun new fuel line before the motor and gearbox come out to allow for a bit of light bodywork to fit the radiator and a general engine bay tidy up.
 
I'll post a few before and after photos...