Flighter

Robbie
if fitting a vented rotor does that space out the hub?

No, it won't, as the bearings in the hub still run on the spindle in the same position. The vented disks may foul the rubber boot on the tie rod ends though.

Thanks, the photo does skew the distances a bit but def something to keep in mind. If the rotor does sit too close whats the best point of call to gain more clearance?

Hi Robbie
Good progress there, there's 2x ways to go about giving the rotor space if needed to clear the ball joint rubber boots, 1, simply fit washers between the steering arms and strut but will need a alignment after. 2, machine the back of the hubs a few mm to gain clearance. As you've got ally hubs there is plenty of meat to carve back if needed..

Having said all this, I have never needed to do any mods to Capri struts (which yours are) with hubs or steering arms, they clear just fine .

Thanks marty!  will be a problem i deal with once  i am pushing the brakes beyond their limit, if it eve becomes a problem.

Another Sunday, some more millennial motorsport!

Simmons are at the painters, i really am keen to get them back after seeing this Torana today. The fronts will be 15x6.5 with an offset of +9 rears will be 15x7 +15. Hoping to run 195s all round.

Took the car for a bit of an extended trip out to the country for a mate wedding this weekend. Was good to put a good solid 3-400km round trip on the car. She ran well with no issues and a very hung over drive home.

One more on the hoist, you can see the extent of oil i was losing onto the exhaust from the gearbox. Car is in getting the cortina sump swapped for an escort one.

Thinking of getting a fullriver and mounting in the boot, drop some weight from the front end and even it out the back. Legally i think it needs to be enclosed but understand the full river as a full sealed unit so not really needed. Also unsure on position as i still want to keep a spare in the boot. Im looking at the hc28 (about 6kg lighter then the current), just unsure if it is suited as sometimes the car is left for a few weeks undriven so will still need the ability to turn the car over.

Fullriver batteries are decent, I have one in my rarely driven mk1 , it's only a small battery (280cca) and it used to spin up the zetec like a bike engine! The battery is now over 12yrs old and it'll still start most of my cars including the diesel ute . The batteries can be mounted at any angle and don't need a box to be legalled up, just strapped secure.
Another battery to consider is an Odyssey dry cell which I've got installed in the blue mk1 van

I have a Fullriver HC 35 (438 CCA compared to 410 CCA of HC 28) in the boot of my RS2000. It's been left 2 months without charging (but disconnected), & spins the Pinto very quickly.
 
Robbie, what are these strut tops?

Thanks marty and Noono

Marty I did look at they oddessy but a mate can get me a pretty ripper deal on the full river hence why I leaned towards it. Sounds like the hc28 would work, even the small hc20 has 310cca and only weighs 8kg. Now where to mount. Wheel well, and move the tyre to the center? I do like to carry tool box for those just Incase moments.

Noono they are grp4. Have a look at this link.

http://grp4fabrications.c...30&products_id=300

Are you able to post photos of your boot set up? I’d love to see.

No problem Robbie,
 


 
Obviously you can get the weight lower by mounting in the wheel well, & I drilled 4 holes in the boot floor, so this might not suit a lot of people.
That is a steel battery tray, from Autobarn I think, with a very light gauge piece of 38x25 RHS (on edge) to support the cantilevered rearmost edge. There is a bolt either side of the chassis rail going thru' tray, RHS & floor. The forward edge of tray sits on the boot floor, with a bolt in both corners. I made my own clamp across the top instead of using the plastic one supplied with tray.
 
PS, I have a Fullriver HC 20 in the boot of a track only MX5, & it works really well.
Cheers
 

Thanks noono, that is pretty much exactly how i was thinking of doing mine. Seems it still allows access to the wheel and keeps boot space at a max. Might get the specs of the battery and make some cut outs to see how it would fit, aero flow do a billet battery tray that would look baller in there but cost is a bit 'how you doing'.