Forum members,
 
What temperature sender are you using and where does this put the needle on the gauge when at normal operating temperature.
 
Regards
John
 

Hi John,
The correct sender unit for the Essex has a white ring around the top. I have just replaced mine with a new one purchased from Burtons. The gauge has always read just out of the blue at normal operating temps, even with the old sender that eventually died. The temp comes up to around one third to a half if I leave it idling for any length of time, but soon comes down again once moving. I am using an electric fan. I've never fitted a proper calibrated temp gauge to see what the actual reading is but most people I've spoken to say just out of the blue is normal.
 

Timmo,
 
Thanks much appreciated.
I have tested many gauges using an original brand new Ford sender in a controlled environment, ie a pot of water with controlled heating and 2 thermometers.  The needle sits where Timmo states out of the blue just less than a quarter (thermometer 82C), when water temp is 100C  {212F} (ie prior to engine dying) the needle is showing almost half.
However, no driver concern at this stage, pedal to the metal, just shows how tough these Ford essex engines are as the needle is no where near the red.  What water coolant temp will tempt the needle to approach then enter the red?
 
Regards
John

I’ve been to red. Radiator cap blown off ( or I forgot to install it right) 40 minute drive and 40 degreeC heat. Don’t recommend it on an expensive Essex. Mine sits at a quarter but I’m sure it’s running to hot although it runs beautifully.

mine is just over the blue or in it

Both mine sit at a bit out of the blue, about 1/4, but when I get stuck in traffic on a hot day it becomes a race between the oil pressure gauge and the temp gauge to see which one can reach the worst extreme first, red temp or super low oil pressure, while the volts gauge slowly retreats to the middle.  These things don't like standing still for too long.

My 1984 Repco Bible says ALL 4 & 6 Fords run the same Aussie "Lorimier" Sender p/n TS2022 that has a 1/8 NPTF thread, regardless if EnFo or Aussie.  I've yet to find a parts book specifically showing Capri V6, but still looking.
 
I fitted a TS2022 recently when my Temp Guage decided to show dead cold and immediately stopped the car
fearing I had lost all my coolant.   Luckily it was just the sender that had called it a day after 45 years of faithful
service.   Funeral ceremony paid homage to this little piece of miracle by recycling to the "Brass" Bin.
Still shows a quarter with new sender while moving as it did before with old sender. 
I run no fans at all as I'm never slow/stationary enough to go past 1/2.
Since 2014 of owning the car, it has always had a slight leak at the top tank neck which I must address one day, but it doesn't seem to affect running temps, but I know it's not ideal, as lack of full pressure equals lower boiling point.
I'd say the 50% conc coolant and a quality "Wahler" German Thermostat is partly to thank for my "happy cool running" 

We have the same problem. Slight coolant loss from my previous posts Bernie. Mine always shows a quarter when hot. Never varies even at 40degrees. Always shows same oil pressure at idle. After pulling it out and checking every bearing surface I know it’s sweet. At best now all I can do is a head crack test but even if I found the crack it won’t affect the rest of the motor.

Why Johnscapris do you ask this question? Knowing how well you know these motors.

Johnscapris
Timmo,
 
Thanks much appreciated.
I have tested many gauges using an original brand new Ford sender in a controlled environment, ie a pot of water with controlled heating and 2 thermometers.  The needle sits where Timmo states out of the blue just less than a quarter (thermometer 82C), when water temp is 100C  {212F} (ie prior to engine dying) the needle is showing almost half.
However, no driver concern at this stage, pedal to the metal, just shows how tough these Ford essex engines are as the needle is no where near the red.  What water coolant temp will tempt the needle to approach then enter the red?
 
Regards
John

Something/s very wrong here. If you know for sure that your water is at 100C, then your guage showing only half is unacceptable. Tests need to be done to eveluate where the problem/s is/are.
 
Water at sea level and open to atmosphere boils at approx 100 deg C . The 13 lb pressure from a tested Cap will only increase the boiling point by half a degree, but its main claim to fame is that to a certain level, it helps a little to keep the water from expanding and just flowing past an unpressurised cap, which worsens the situation as air replaces the lost hot water and air cannot dissipate heat like water, and so greater overheating ensues.
 
Even tho I'm happy with my "lot", I intend to install a Recovery Cap and Expansion Tank once i solder my neck which has a slight leak, which is not acceptable.
 
My AP5 Valiant Regal has had 50% Castrol AF/AB Coolant and a Recovery System for the last 30 years and has not used one drop of Coolant in all that time, other than being changed every 10 years ! Nor has the engine ever had ANY repair whatsoever since 1965 when our family purchased it new! Oil and filter was/is changed every 1000 mile from new.................and like my Capri; NO FAN at all.
 
I hope I havent offended anyone with my Valiant story. If so, harden up princess !