Hi trying to fix air bubbles from radiator. Pulled motor out to do head gaskets but seem fine. So firstly can you use a DPort gasket set on an oval port (someone used a DPort inlet manifold gasket before). Secondly why does it seem to have almost a matchstick head hole for water galleries ( should these be opened up to suit the manifold). Finally I heard that the head bolt torque had been changed so anyone know the correct figure for an oval port motor. Book says 60lbs. Thanks in advance

Proper comment/on line diagnosis,  can only get better if we knew entire history inc when engine is cold and hot, etc.
Have you done the basics like check for any leaks on intake side of water pump which should be bottom hose, 
radiator, rad Cap, top hose, thermo cover, etc ? ....Fitting a new cap is no guarantee it's 100%. Nothing can be taken
for granted; it must be tested with correct Tool.   I've seen too many engines stripped and then owner/mechanic
finds it's something simple like a Cap etc.    Next test is CO Chemical test of Radiator.  Next test is Cyl Head & Intake Man Bolt tensions.
Why have you pulled the whole engine for H/Gaskets?

Looking at pics online the D port gasket kits have head gaskets with different water gallery cutouts so might be wise to look into if the correct head gasket was used.
 
If you have removed the heads then it would be best to replace the gaskets and have the heads skimmed and might as well get them crack tested while they are in the machine shop.  I've been told that the small hole is to act like an orifice to slow the flow rate down.

The radiator was pressure tested no loss of pressure. It has had several new caps fitted all the same result. Wether cold or hot as soon as it runs the water starts to dribble out the overflow tube and dribbles out until motor has cooled down. No other leaks ever. All bolts were checked for tightness when the problem occurred which was when the radiator cap went a wall while driving leaving me stranded. It has new thermostat (tested) so all it could be is exhaust gas getting into water jacket. I pulled whole motor as their was a huge clanging noise at low revs and under load so as to overheating from the radiator cap I thought best to check everything. The bearings are fine the pistons and rings as well as bores are fine so a presume noise came from the BW35 Auto. The heads test out straight still can’t get a 001 feeler gauge through at any point so apart from a crack test (won’t happen this time of year) they will go back on. The hole in the gaskets is seriously small for water like the thickness of a match stick when the real hole is that of a 10c piece and the original old gasket has an even smaller hole. The thermostat should slow the flow from what I know and any crud could easily block the hole. I’m reasonably sure the head gasket is right for the oval port new and old but the inlet gasket was definitely for a D port but fitted to this oval port motor. Thanks all

Air bubbles in the coolant is different to cap bypassing.  When you said bubbles in the radiator did you see them with the cap off at operating temp?
 
When you say the radiator was pressure tested was this test done on the whole system or just the radiator.  It should be done on the whole system when filled with water.
 
Have you done a compression test?
 
If its combustion pressures getting into the system because of the gasket or a crack you will see it in all of the above tests.
 
Doubt is has anything to do with hoses since system is under pressure and cant suck air in.
 
I would do all of the pressure tests before you go for a long drive.
 
If the pressure type tests don't show anything then it could be that its overheating because of a blockage or the water pump is failing, or may be as simple as fitting a recovery system - which for me is a must on these cars.
 
Since the engine is out you might was well reverse flush the block and consider replacing the pump while its out.

Keith, 
not a god idea to mix Intake Gaskets; correct part for correct job.   The "match-head" size hole is a worry; doesnt sound good. Check matching holes on Block and Heads and ensure theyre large and clean. The hole in the Gasket should be checked against a NEW pair of known brand and reputation. If found to be correct to your suspected
gasket, and still wanting to enlarge hole, I would not overdo it, but enlarging by 50% should not cause any problems.
These holes are engineered for a reason/s.
My V6 was running cool as a cucumber from the minute I started it after lying in mothballs for 15 years and still full of coolant. Ran like a dream from Ballarat to Mornington Peninsula even with a worn-out & noisy Water Pump that would only leak at idle! On the open road, not a drop was lost !
When got it home, decided Valves needed doing, so thought best to pull whole lot out and pull down whole engine and check EVERY internal engine component to be sure, as all other seals and gaskets were leaking a little. 
When refitting all gaskets in Major Kit from "shirley" in UK, they looked identical to my old gaskets in every respect, inc "D" Port Head and Intake Man Gaskets, so I installed ALL Gaskets and Seals in entire engine.
Still runs like a dream, minus the oil leaks. Tested the Thermostat; perfect. Heater inside car like a Sauna!
Still runs cool as a cucumber. So confident that I have deleted the Fan Blades it runs so correctly: temp guage always climbs to middle and stays there. If Im at a rail crossing/lights for more than 5 mins idling, it will start to climb very slowly, but then fall to middle as soon as I get going. If I think I'll be held up for more than 5 mins which only happens 2 or 3 times a year, I'll do the "2016 Audi thing" and turn off the engine. Re-starts instantaneously every time, regardless. 
Bernie

Pressure test done on whole system water in and no leaks or pressure loss. I won’t use the wrong gaskets someone else used the wrong inlet type but did use the right head gasket. Motor always ran at quarter to half on temp gauge and only at half at 40 degrees and stopped in traffic. I didn’t compression test it but will once it’s back in. I’m sure now bottom end is fine. If the comp test shows anything I can address it easily if need be. The car never had an issue the water pump is like new as is really the whole motor.

compression test is important check because pressures are much higher than cooling system.  Be sure to test it warm so if there is a crack it would have opened up (hopefully not the case).
 
The size of the gasket hole would have been specified by a Ford engineer for a reason.
 
While the heads are off its a good time to see if you can see the overbore size stamped on the pistons, handy for future reference and hopefully not 0.060"

Bore size is +40 so good for now and one more rebore. Thing is it would leak in a minute from start at 5degrees in winter. No heat in it at all. I used new radiator caps and the bottom seal looks good. Even put an extra rubber seal in. As soon as it starts it pushes the water out till it is about at the bottom of the top hose. It won’t push all the water out and hasn’t overheated. Thanks.

The pistons look fairly new with only a slight bit of carbon. The two in the center do look like they might have been getting a bit to much fuel though.