My RS2000 Engine buildup
[img]http://www.eurofordclub.com/gallery/albums/rs2000/DSCF2638tu.thumb.jpg">

It had been a while since I nervously pulled a deteriorated lump out of the RS2000's engine bay. While I had taken the time to carefully label everything in zip-lock bags when taking the engine apart, I was still hoping it would all go back together easily. it was time to get this RS2000 engine back from a million parts into something respectable! I had prepared all the parts I needed, and bought what needed to be replaced.

You should be able to click on the photos for larger versions, if my inter-my-net skills serve me well.

Below: The block is ready to go. Extensively crack tested, magnafluxed, decked, honed, and given a good clean, it sits alongside the crankshaft, which was given a polish and a balance. You can see the anti-rust compound put on the crank, which gets cleaned off just before installing.

[img]http://www.eurofordclub.com/gallery/albums/rs2000/DSCF4004tu.thumb.jpg">

New rings installed onto the pistons, ready to go into the engine.

[img]http://www.eurofordclub.com/gallery/albums/rs2000/DSCF4011tu.thumb.jpg">

A variety of parts acquired, things I will need to complete the engine.

[img]http://www.eurofordclub.com/gallery/albums/rs2000/DSCF4023tu.thumb.jpg">

The block was mounted back onto the engine stand, and given a good cleaning out. Making sure the bores were completely spotless after their hone, we got a photo of the unique effect left after the honing.

[img]http://www.eurofordclub.com/gallery/albums/rs2000/RS2000_engine_284.thumb.jpg">

First step of assembly was to sit the crank into place, after cleaning off all the anti-rust compound applied, making sure it was spotless.

[img]http://www.eurofordclub.com/gallery/albums/rs2000/RS2000_engine_246.thumb.jpg">

A small piece of plastigauge was then laid on the crank, and without oil, the main ends torqued up to their values. The main ends then get removed, and the plastigauge, which was squashed when the main ends were torqued, is measured against the scale, to check bearing tolerances. Here you can see the bearings are at their closest tolerance.

[img]http://www.eurofordclub.com/gallery/albums/rs2000/RS2000_engine_265.thumb.jpg">

The plastigauge is then cleaned off the bearings, once we have determined the bearings are the right fit. If the plastigauge hasn't been squashed enough, it means the bearings are too thin. If it is squashed unevenly, the bearings either haven't seated properly, or the journal is warped and needs to be line-honed, with oversize bearings ordered.

The main ends were then lubricated with engine assembly grease and torqued to their correct values in four stages, stepping up to the desired torque.


The pistons were next to go in. Little sleeves were put over the bolts to ensure they didn’t scratch the cylinder walls or the crank, when they went in. A good tip I was given was that fuel line can work just as effectively, but these specifically made ones can be acquired for next to nothing also.



Next was to insert the pistons into the cylinders. First we made sure the oil spacer gap and oil rings were correctly orientated, and also the two compression rings. We then installed the bearings onto the conrod big ends, and lubricated them. Then we lubricated the piston skirts with engine oil, and also the cylinder bores. The easiest way to get the ring compressors on is to sit the piston half into the cylinder, and once it’s square in the bore, put the ring compressor over the piston and tighten it up. Then we used the wooden handle of a rubber mallet to tap the piston into place. If it isn’t going in with a little force, then it means one of the rings has come out of the ringcompressor. Time to pull it out and try again, definitely DO NOT just apply more force to a ring that has slipped out.



When installing the pistons, take note of the witness marks on the conrod and big ends (big ends being the cap that bolts onto the conrods on the crank end, for those who aren’t sure what I am talking about). Here you can see number three piston witness marks.



Once all the pistons were in, torqued up, it was time for the head to go on. Time to crack out that torque wrench again! Also, the welsh plugs in the block that had been removed for the block cleaning had to be replaced, so using Stag joining compound and a socket the size of the internal pressing, new brass welsh plugs were hammered into place.



Next up, the auxiliary shaft was lubricated with engine assembly grease and installed. Interesting to note, it only runs on the one bearing at the front, despite looking like it should have another one at the rear. We then installed the auxiliary shaft oil seal on, and then the water pump.

Flipping the engine over, we then installed the oil pump and torqued it up to the specifications.


Back the right way up, we then installed the crankshaft oil seal housing. This was the biggest source of all my oil leak problems before the rebuild, so I was keen to make sure it wasn’t going to happen again. We noted that the fan belt pulley for the crank cannot be installed before the timing belt is installed, due to the shroud it contains.



We then installed and torqued the auxiliary pulley. We had to tie the pulley to the block in order to stop it from rotating while we torqued it! It didn’t matter where the pulley was in the timing of things before the belt goes on, as it only runs the distributor, fuel pump, and oil pump. Once the belt and distributor are on, though, the timing becomes very important for the distributor. At this stage, though, not important yet.



Before we could put the crankshaft fan belt pulley on, we had to install the timing belt. We wanted to have the head, block, and distributor all aligned to piston number one Top Dead Centre on the compression stroke. The crank rotates twice for every camshaft revolution, so to so long as piston number one is in top dead centre, you’re ok with the crank. This can be seen by the solitary crankshaft fan belt pulley mark straight up, seen here.



The camshaft is in piston number one TDC compression stroke when the arrow is aligned with the dot. A visual way to confirm this is to check that neither the exhaust valve nor inlet valve are currently open, by looking and checking that the camshaft lobes for piston number one are not touching the cam followers.

Next on was the distributor, though this was to check how it was all going. I'll probably rip this dizzy out and put in a dual point Mallory that I have laying around in a box, but I know this one works, we'll see.


The orientation of the distributor is not as important as the timing of it. On my rally car, the vacuum advance on the dizzy (the bellows shaped UFO-looking round thing on the side) points towards to front left headlight, as the race sump dictates it has to be there. The proper orientation (according to Gregorys manual on it anyway) for the Escort is with the vacuum advance side to the rear of the engine. It doesn’t matter as much as the orientation of the dizzy rotor to the housing. Both have a mark on them, for when piston number one is in top dead centre compression stroke. These need to align, when the engine is in that position. So you slide the rotor down inside the gap for it in the block, where the threaded section mates with the auxiliary shaft. You then rotate the distributor housing to align the two marks. If the dizzy is not facing the way you want it, you need to remove the rotor and insert it in a different way, so that the housing follows.



Now that all those bits and pieces are installed, I decided it was time to hit the engine with a bit of paint to make sure it didn’t rust. I had been waiting until it was assembled, under the advice of the machine shop, but in hindsight, the easiest time to paint the engine would have been with the head on only. I masked up the areas I didn’t want paint to be, gave the block a good cleaning down with CRC Contact Cleaner to remove any oils, and then sprayed it with a charcoal high temperature engine paint.

Left hand side of the engine, all holes filled with rags, all masked up.



Right hand side, seen here. I used old spark plugs to make sure no paint went into the cylinders, and of course taped up any other holes and ports. Also made sure the RS engine number didn’t get painted over!



Here is the engine as it stands, still to be put back on are the engine mounts, oil spray bar, inlet manifold and carby, sump, and rocker cover, and awaiting the new thermostat and thermostat housing. Then it will be time to get the engine onto the engine crane and off the engine stand. The rear main seal will go on just before the flywheel, then the new clutch will go on, new gearbox, and then straight into the car.



That's about where the engine is at the moment, though hopefully will get some more done on it tomorrow. Any comments are welcome, I don't pretend to be an expert at this, just taking things as I go, asking questions, and learning. It's all about having fun and enjoying it.



Regards, Timmeh!

Great read mate. Oh and well done on the DIY approach. I can't assemble furniture from Ikea...[:I]
What are the final specs on the engine going to be?

CheeRS
Steve

Thanks for your reply!

The engine is currently 20 thou oversize, was fortunate to keep it this way as one of the number two piston compression rings broke in the cylinder, fortunately it didn't do enough damage to the cylinder wall to cause a rebore out to 40 or even 60 thou. The cylinder hone was enough to remove the marks that it left behind.

The head is ported and polished, over sized valves, and has a worked cam fitted - but not stupid lumpy, just enough to keep it friendly. The head has been decked again, along with the block, so compression would be a little higher than normal, but not a great deal over standard. Just going for a solid performer, better than stock but nothing wild. I'll leave the wilder engine parts for the rally car.

Here is an Escort head before port and polishing:


And here is the head of this RS afterwards:



Pistons and rods are standard, with no plans to take the engine to stupid-rpm or put it on boost, no real need to change these. Same with the crank, solid unit, all good there. I inspected all these parts with the block to make sure they weren't a time bomb waiting to happen though.

At the moment, I'll probably get the engine running on the current distributor, but can see myself either putting in the dual point Mallory or buying the Crane Cams electronic ignition kit for it. I guess it depends how many problems I have woth the dizzy. If it works reliably, I'll run with it. I don't mind having old school parts in it, after all, it is a 1979 car and I like the classic nature of it.

In the same way, I'll also run the mechanical fuel pump until I have problems with it. I have so many around though, that I'll probably just swap in a new one, unless the car starts leaving me stranded miles from home. At the moment though, if it ain't broken...

I haven't sorted the exhaust yet, but the shop I get most automotive things I can't do at has done many Escorts before, the owner used to rally one a few years ago, so presumably a 4 into 2 into one extractors and out the rear, via a muffler or two.

Today I temporarily fitted the chrome rocker cover I havehere to the engine, but unsure of whether I like it or if I should put on a painted one. there are time and places for chrome, unsure if the engine bay of an Escort is one of them.



Now it's my turn for a question! Is there any disadvantage in running a Ford Z9 oil filter over the normal Z158? Both fit, and from what I can see, the Z9 is half the price. I realise the Z9 is a bigger capacity.

Cheers... Timmeh

I have always used a z9 on my escorts.
If you have problems with blowing headgaskets, I have used ACL "Holimar" head gasket sealer when asembling, with great sucess. I never assemble a water cooled motor with out it these days after having so much trouble with my old escort.[%]
very comprhensive instructions with lots of good tips on doing an engine building properly. I can see that you are a guy that is very fustidious in every thing you do. I would love to see the car when it is finished as i beleave it will look like it did from the showroom or evern better. Well done[:u]

I thought you bought ARGO rods for your motor.

Thanks guys.

RSWEPN - we were going to, before a Mk II rally car fell into our laps, and we decided to set up our tarmac rally team. Unfortunately I didn't have enough money to spend 4 grand on the internals of the RS2000 and also purchase the rally car, car trailer, and spares package, so we decided that for this rebuild of the RS engine, we'll stick with the standard stuff and enjoy the car as Ford intended for a few years. It's not out of the question that we may pursue the forced induction path in a year or two, but for now, we're concentrating on rallying.

You're right in that we had Argo look at it and got a quote, but circomestance meant that at the last minute, our plans changed. I'm disappointed that we didn't get to complete the plan we originally had with this car, but it's not a 'never', it's just a 'not now', if that makes sense.

Tim

great read mate!

whats estimate power are you aiming for, or expect to get?

cheers
rhys