I recently fitted a Davies Craig EWP80 to my Essex V6 - Not to overcome cooling issues or for power gain but to eliminate the replacement of the Cast Aluminium??? aftermarket water pumps that seem to have a shorter and shorter operating life each time I replace them, even with the recommended corrosion inhibitor - 4 in 20 years. Admittedly the car is no longer a daily driver (Not for 15 years) which probably doesn't help the matter, The cost of the Electric Water pump was on par with the Mechanical, But if you want the thermatic controller this is as much again and then you may need the Booster Pump for the Heater/Demister system. I contacted Davies Craig during the fitting and they were more than happy to send me additional Elbows (You get 1 x straight 1 x Elbow with the kit)at no charge and eventually did me a really good price on the thermatic controller. Not running a thermostat and set at 85 celcius that pump has never run at fill tilt even on a +35 celcius and in traffic, At this point in time all good, And when you do shut off the engine it continues to circulate coolant to prevent heat soak. I am happy with it, But everyone has their own opinions [?]

DAVIES, CRAIG HAS SOLD OVER 7,000 EWPs AROUND THE WORLD SINCE ITS RELEASE TWO AND A HALF YEARS AGO. WARRANTIES, WHICH WE INVARIABLY HONOUR AND ARE FOR 2 YEARS, ARE RUNNING AT 1.7%

USUALLY IF AN EWP FAILS TWICE IN THE SAME APPLICATION IT IS DUE TO SOME PECULIARITY OF THE SET UP.

HERE IS A TECHNICAL BULLETIN THAT WE PUT OUT RE THE SHAFT SEAL AND THERMOSTAT.

DAVIES CRAIG TECHNICAL BULLETIN -- THERMOSTAT


HAVE YOU REMOVED YOUR THERMOSTAT? IF NOT, PRESSURE CAN BUILD UP IN THE EWP HOUSING IF IT IS WORKING AGAINST A FULLY CLOSED THERMOSTAT AND FORCE COOLANT PAST THE SHAFT SEAL. ONCE A PASSAGE IS ESTABLISHED IT MAY NOT RESEAL WHEN THE PRESSURE DROPS.


ALSO

TRY TO RUN THE EWP AFTER A HOT ENGINE SHUT DOWN OR THE HEAT FROM THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD WILL GO TO THE BLOCK, HEAT THE COOLANT AND ITS TEMP AND PRESSURE WILL INCREASE, AGAIN FORCING COOLANT PAST THE SHAFT SEAL.

WE ARE ALSO FINDING THAT IF THE EWP IS BOLTED RIGIDLY TO A CHASSIS RAIL OR SIMILAR, WHEN IT HEATS UP IT TENDS TO EXPAND AND BOW, AND THE SEAL MAY BE DAMAGED. SO IT IS BEST TO MOUNT THE EWP IN THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE, AND TO LET THE HOSE TAKE ITS WEIGHT.


ON POWER IMPROVEMENTS,

WE FIND BEFORE AND AFTER DYNO TESTS ARE FICKLE AND THAT THERE ARE SO MANY VARIABLES, INCLUDING ENGINE TEMP. WE USED A 240V CALIBRATED TORQUE METER TO RUN THE MECHANICAL PUMP AT THE SPEEDS THE ENGINE RUNS THE PUMP, AND FOUND ON A GM 5L V8 THE PUMP WAS TAKING 1OkW TO RUN AT 5,500 RPM. SO 10kW LESS THE EWP POWER USED BY THE EWP (6 AMPS) IS THE POWER GAINED = ABOUT 9.5kW! IT WOULD BE VERY SIMILAR ON A FORD V8


BEST REGARDS

RICHARD DAVIES
MANAGING DIRECTOR

DAVIES, CRAIG PTY. LTD.

TEL +61 (0)3 9646 3051 FAX +61 (0)3 9646 2632
MOBILE 0408 31 56 97
BOX 176, 30 BEACONSFIELD PARADE
PORT Melbourne, VICTORIA 3207, Australia
email rddavies@daviescraig.com.au
web site www.daviescraig.com.au

DAVIES, CRAIG HAS BEEN AWARDED A US PATENT NO 6,425,353 FOR ITS AWARD WINNING ELECTRIC WATER PUMP (EWP)



Found above on net.

There are plenty of reasons to run one of these.

I too have a davies craig EWP and controller to fit, please can some one tell me the neck used to cover the hole left by the removal of the old mech pump thanks

caprigt69

Ok

So no one could help answer my question, I went out and found a solution for myself[:u]. I made an ally blanking plate in 8mm, shaped from the old gaskit between the factory pump and the block. Went to the local car parts shop and purchased a t'stat housing for a V6 dunny door with abs, vr or vs I think. Note this t'stat housing is only 2 bolt (most are), the ford pump is 3 bolt, but the top and bottom holes on the ford pump are a bea's richard away from the center to center spacing of the vr,vs t'stat housing. So out with the file and a couple min later, I had a blanking plate and t'stat bolted onto my V6 Essex with only 2 bolts as the blanking plate covers the 3rd factory hole. Made a couple gaskits up and a bit of high temp sealer as an extra measure, it all bolted up and looks quite neat.



As you can see from the picture it looks quite neat, well I think it does anyhow. After I wired up the digital controller to both the pump and the thermo fan, I tested the setup with the car sitting at idle. To check the opperation out I set the controller at its lowest temp of 75 deg C and started the car. The pump did ecactly as the instructions said it would and the thermo fan came in and out as it should, the system held a steady 75 Deg C for over 1/2 an hour at idle. I have set the system up to the old t'stat opening temp and will now leave it at that. I am very happy with the results over all

Scott