2010/04/27 12:54:48
tanz
Thanks Simon!

It was mainly the hinge set-up I was looking for. The latest hoist turned up mounted on some nice RHS, and thought that'd be good for a folder![%] Now, off to the hardware to get some nice and heavy door hinges.

Cheers.
2010/04/27 15:00:56
Simon
Yep, I just used some hinges I had left over from a cubboard I built. If you want something a little more heavy duty, gate hinges would probably be the go.
2010/04/27 19:34:53
martymexico
Nice progress happening there simon,
i've been studying the moving back area of the bulkhead/plenum, the spot where you have drawn the slice lines is prolly not a good plan as the seam where the bubble welds to wont line up at all causing many griefs and growls!!

May i suggest to slice it nearer to the top as possible and fill the sides in with strips. A modification to the bubble, maybe cut into 3 pieces and rewelded due to the size/width will be reduced. Also You can remove upto 35mm from the front bulkhead without modding the bubble and still fit the heater box as normal...if your running one!
Cheers

2010/04/27 23:18:46
Simon
Thanks for the tips Marty. The markings on the plenum area are quite old and were pretty much a case of "thinking out loud". The vertical lines in the photo were reference marks for something else, although I can't remember what!

I think I have my 'rust repairs' more or less sussed now. Just need to find the time to tackle them.
2010/04/28 23:53:33
Simon
My new radiator arrived today. It may not be quite as pretty as a PWR unit, but for the price it's not too bad and it's almost a perfect fit. I just hope it works! In my case it doesn't really matter how it looks as the plan is to sit it under the new slam panel, which really only leaves the core visable.

One of the problems with sitting it so far forward is that it doesn't really leave me much space to fit an oil cooler, as the radiator sits very close to the front panel. The other concern I have is whether it will get enough airflow through it sitting so close to the front panel, but I guess people stick intercoolers in there with no issues, so with a decent thermo fan hopefully it should be O.K. I really don't want to start cutting holes in the front panel.







I just need to trim a little more off the support panel for it to fit properly, then I'll weld in some vertical strenghening ribs down either side of the radiator and sort out some mounts. Once that's done I can weld in the new slam panel.
2010/04/29 09:45:35
MK1_Oz
Very nice work. What brand rad is that?
2010/04/29 23:01:20
Simon
quote:
Originally posted by MK1_Oz

Very nice work. What brand rad is that?



It's just a Chinese radiator off eBay from a mob called X Speed. It arrived in six days with online tracking provided.
2010/04/30 12:19:43
johnfw
Top effort I follow with interest. Considering your lightening of components and sustitution of fibreglass bonnet and boot, what would be the likely increase in weight due to seam stitching? I would guess in general terms the weight of wire used in whole project, what do you expect?
2010/04/30 13:28:24
Simon
Hi John, thanks for that.

A good question and one I had considered. I have a 15kg roll of wire in the welder at the moment, so I would have to have a look at how much is left. It would be a very rough estimate as I have used it to weld up rust repair sections and make my sheet metal folder etc., but I don't think it will be a ridiculous amount.

The bonnet alone is 5kg lighter than a steel item and I suspect would more than make up for any additional steel welded in, plus the shell gets a supposed 10% increase in stiffness which is a plus.

The cage will be the killer, so I will just remove weight wherever I can, then compare the weight of the finished product to a standard Mk1. 850kg would be great.
2010/04/30 14:15:06
Paul Dunstan
They say 5kg weight saving is equivalent to a 2hp gain at the wheels
<< ..78.. >> - Powered by APG vNext Trial

© 2025 APG vNext Trial Version 5.1

Use My Existing Forum Account

Use My Social Media Account