Ok. I just re checked the ignition key barrel.

When you turn it to ignition/run there is power coming from the key barrel. I then turned the key to start it. There was still power coming from the ignition wire.

Therefore during start/crank there will be 12v coming from the barrel through the ballast resistor through the junction up to the coil which then turns into 5v at the coil. at the same time 12v comes from the starter to the junction.

5v meets 12v on the same line. This is the way Escorts work during crank/start.

I'm feeling the 12v coming from the starter solenoid is backtracking down the resistor to the alarm whilst at the same time 12v is running from the barrel to the alarm.

This is new technology meeting old.

So maybe this is seen as a "hotwire" which is why everything starts going funny.

there should only be one wirer to positive side of the coil which should be the one from the igition not sure what the outher wire is. if you have added an alarm to the circuit you would need to cut the the wire from the coil and hook to the alarm then hook output of alarm to coil. depending on what the alarm is the may have to happen through a relay setup to run correct. my advise would be to remove any alarm wiring you have put in place and test the system less the alarm as i think this is what is causeing your problem. i have done tons of car electrics and when people aren't sure of what they are doing when installing alarms they can make your life a pain in the arse as they malfuction due to being hook to high current etc and stop the owner as well as the crimes from taking the car.

so disconect the alarm and re join any wirez that have been cut and go from there. maybe find a mate with some auto elect knowlodge to help you out.

Apparently my XR700 has been fried at some pointmaybebe by the Bosch GT40r coil which shouldn't be run with it. Just bought a Crane HI-6 setip and be done with it now.
I'm over it and I'm just ripping out the ballast resistor as well!

Alarm setup has always been fine


[:o)]