Trying a different approach to keeping the old girl cool. This should eliminate heat soak also.

Would have been cheaper setting your thermo's to come on when a heat soak situation was happening.

None the less its a good idea

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Originally posted by Mickas

Would have been cheaper setting your thermo's to come on when a heat soak situation was happening.

None the less its a good idea

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Heatsoak is typically the increase in engine temp after the engine is switched off, when this happens damage can occur to turbos etc when oil cooks and bakes on bearings etc. The electric water pump will continue to run up to two minutes after the engine is switched on circulating the water thru the engine and turbo. It does also free some much needed space between the radiator and the block so I can mount a second fan.

are you hooking that up to a switch or accesories? i was thinking accesories so you dont forget to turn it on but some people say switch.

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Originally posted by ESK-74

are you hooking that up to a switch or accesories? i was thinking accesories so you dont forget to turn it on but some people say switch.

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why not both? have a manuel override switch or even a temperature switch. there is plenty of different options.

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Originally posted by muzza

quote:

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Originally posted by Mickas

Would have been cheaper setting your thermo's to come on when a heat soak situation was happening.

None the less its a good idea

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Heatsoak is typically the increase in engine temp after the engine is switched off, when this happens damage can occur to turbos etc when oil cooks and bakes on bearings etc. The electric water pump will continue to run up to two minutes after the engine is switched on circulating the water thru the engine and turbo. It does also free some much needed space between the radiator and the block so I can mount a second fan.

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I know what heat soak is noddy.
You reckon you won't get heat soak after 2 minutes?
I had my thermo hard wired, so it cut in after the engine was off, just before heat soak arrived.

Yeah sorry didn't mean to sound patronising.[:p]

I do have a manual overide switch for the thermos however I find this very ineffective as I can still see the coolant temp rise after the engine is off, sometimes reaching 110 degrees after a session on the track and coolant pisses out. I really like the idea of the pump which by the way can also turn on the thermos while coolant is flowing for 2 mins or 5 degrees below the controller setting (whichever comes first). I think this aided with a cooldown lap should keep the engine/coolant temps under control, I've also purchased an N14 50mm thick radiator which seems to work really good when there is air flow. Also purchased some heat wrap for the turbo manifold as the ceramic coating does a poor job of heat supression, can't beat the good old heat wrap.

quote:

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Originally posted by ESK-74

are you hooking that up to a switch or accesories? i was thinking accesories so you dont forget to turn it on but some people say switch.

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Thats all handled by the digital controller, It has a batt +ve connection and an acc +ve connection also. If I find I want more control I'll patch in a switch to drive the pump 100% rather than the controller varying the speed. I'm very keen to see what results this will give me and will keep you all posted.

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Originally posted by muzza

Yeah sorry didn't mean to sound patronising.[:p]

I do have a manual overide switch for the thermos however I find this very ineffective as I can still see the coolant temp rise after the engine is off, sometimes reaching 110 degrees after a session on the track and coolant pisses out. I really like the idea of the pump which by the way can also turn on the thermos while coolant is flowing for 2 mins or 5 degrees below the controller setting (whichever comes first). I think this aided with a cooldown lap should keep the engine/coolant temps under control, I've also purchased an N14 50mm thick radiator which seems to work really good when there is air flow. Also purchased some heat wrap for the turbo manifold as the ceramic coating does a poor job of heat supression, can't beat the good old heat wrap.

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Yeh 110 is starting to get on the high side. I am surprised the thermos don't keep it cool after you turn it off. Are you sure you haven't got any other issues? Like a crappy rad cap or thermostat??

Yeah I've got many rad caps from 13PSI to 18PSI all hold good pressure, the thing just heats up in traffic so a pump that can run flat chat at idle will help I hope. Anyway I have another trackday at eastern creek on March 2 so will give it a good test then.