there is a couple of bubble spots on the c pillars that i know are not surface rust one spot is in the last photo a small spot on the heater bubble I might replace the hole top of it  most of the other stuff is surface rust.
 
I'm just hoping that the driver side fender can be pulled back in to shape and i don't have to replace the hole thing

Welcome! My 2c on carbs
32/36 is very capable. Rejet for use with a mild cam and remove choke butterflies. Being a progressive carb it's very road friendly. The first thing I'd check on yours is the idle jets to see if the threads in carb body have been stripped which would cause the lean running condition.
38DGAS has a sudden throttle response. Back to back with the 32/36 I only gained about 0.2 sec over the 1/4 mile but it does have a sportier feel (and sound) to it.
Twin DCOE's are either for show or for cylinder heads that have been ported, bigger valves, higher CR etc. With a reasonable budget, 130WHP is about the average you'd expect from going down that path. It's easy to get sucked into the idea of getting big power with twin webers but there are pros and cons.
Build a mild, reliable motor with a 32/36  and enjoy many years of trouble free motoring.
Build a highly tuned motor on twin carbs and expect fuel vapours and a strip down with new rings every couple of years lol
 

thanks ratta might look in to a new 32/36 or rebuilding mine or single side webber. 
just gotta source a 4 speed already have the cables and the peddle box sitting there.
also have the original ford repair manual for extra info.
 

Ray561
I actually have a single side Weber manifold laying there so maybe a single 45 or 48?.

The Lynx manifold is good, but the rest are worse than the stock Ford manifold for the 32/36. A 32/36 is good for 130hp too, so again, there's no need to change it unless the camshaft requires it. There's an interesting thread on Turbosport about mods to 32/36s to get them to flow better. From memory, after testing they were found to be mostly bunkum or detrimental to performance, so personally I wouldn't bother with any of them.
 
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=109939

Flighter you must me talking pommie bhp (flywheel hp). There's never been 130whp from a 32/36

also wondering where the best place is to get replacement panels and if everyone thinks i'm better off replacing the front fender.
 

Ray561
thanks ratta might look in to a new 32/36 or rebuilding mine or single side webber. 
just gotta source a 4 speed already have the cables and the peddle box sitting there.
also have the original ford repair manual for extra info.
 

You'd be surprised how much it will cost to go single side draft. Carb, manifold, soft mounts & studs,  linkage kit, cable set up, K&N filter, ram tubes, fuel banjos, fuel line, vacuum line. Then tuning it which will more than likely include the purchase of jets & chokes. Have a look at http://www.weberperformance.com.au/ it's a very good website & business.
I would personally stick to the 32/36 because the cost of doing the aforementioned would outweigh any performance benefit you might get over the 32/36.
The money saved there could go towards practical performance upgrades like wheels & tyres & suspension ;)

I wasn't aware we were speaking rear wheel HP, but even 130hp at the flywheel is a very nice increase over the stock 94hp. I'd be very happy with that on a road car, which the 32/36 is ideal for.

i'll probably look at buying a new 32/36 just hope it will do well once i get a better cam for the 2.0L

finally removed the lower section of the vinyl roof passenger side has a small rush hole nothing to bad smaller than i expected but the divers side is a different story and tip or advice guy's?.
thinking may need to get a read 1/4 panel to replace the parts that need repairing if so wear would i get it.