Thanks for the comment - im really happy I took the panel beater on - I get a bit impatient and rush it sometimes -he is making the end result very worthwhile.
 
the bonnet was very gungy - cleaned it up with a scotchbrite disc


the front edge had rolled under - reefed it back - only 3 appreciable dents in the snout - will let the beater fix them

some major work needed to the frame

beaters been working on the scuttle area
 

finished some repairs to pass guard


set up the repair sections using these little clamps I scored off flea bay - hold the panels and allow for good weld intrusion


I folded a new repair panel up - the beater had to camber the top face a little in order to follow the original plane - we blew compressed air over the weld as we went to stop distortion

welded in a little return to btn the guard and scuttle
 

I had a new pass guard but hate wasting redeemable panels - wow, from a crummy guard into something nice - just for 3hrs or so labour & $70 odd materials - ill fold some more sheet up ready for the next guard repair - plenty of mine have rust lower & upper rear like this one  - the one I got from Bendigo - lovely guards - just rusty  as above - yummy!
 

 

its good to see the end result after welding and repairing them ..
 
nice work
 
just a tip if some of those holes aren't that big you could place copper coin's or pennys or strips , just make sure its at least 3mm thinkmess copper  under them to fill in the holes or copper strip also helps keep the heat on the copper instead of the panel 
 
its comming along well spud

looks cool spud. I bought some of those clamps also after the suggestion on the garage tools thread but are yet to try them.
 
Can I ask, with the guard repair, did you just fold up the top of the repair section up straight, or did you have to do a slight compound curve? I imagined over that length it would have had a bit of a curve?
 
Taking a guard that buggered and making it useable again would be pretty rewarding I expect.
 
 
 

Just flat surfaces when folding - the beater put a little curvature in the top face - but it was v mild.
Yes that's the joy of restoring - that car - 2 a pillars, 2 floor sections, 2 sills, vent panel front and rear, tail light panel, repairs to quarters, "new" guards, front sub frame, boot floor repair etc etc - but it's turned out t b a straight shell with v little bog. He measured it all up - no distortion worth speaking of - another one salvaged. V satisfying ...

Very well done Spud you have certainly been busy on it.

in rod we trust
its good to see the end result after welding and repairing them ..
 
nice work
 
just a tip if some of those holes aren't that big you could place copper coin's or pennys or strips , just make sure its at least 3mm thinkmess copper  under them to fill in the holes or copper strip also helps keep the heat on the copper instead of the panel 
 
its comming along well spud

Yes the beater has a little copper strip he uses on the small stuff - we replaced more rather than less on the big repairs

I'd be interested to know what spot weld drilling you have. Nice clean holes and some really close to the edge and with no break through. Nice work. I seem to find 1 and 2 cent pieces in my cars when I pull them apart. Funny how they can help you put one back together.

Drill a pilot hole with the normal drill bit. Then carefully drill thru top sheet metal with the cutting bit