Small Update -
 
Was suffering from a fair bit of fuel leaking out from the carbs so I pulled out the float needle and the o rings had perished due the carbs sitting unused on a shelf for a while.
 
It was going to cost $100 AUD for a new gasket set so being a tight arse I just bought a couple of o ring sets from super crap auto and replaced it and it seems to be working fine.
 
Here are the old ones -
 

 
 

This is a top post... I have purchased a set of '99 R1 carbs from the states, and I will either get a flange lasercut locally or purchase one from the UK...
Does anyone happen to have a CAD drawing of the flange for laser cutting?
 
The other thing I would ask is with mounting the carbs with the silicone mounting runners, do you have a problem with vibration shaking them loose, or worry about them disconnecting from the runners? I may consider using a bracket from the flange to support them, but I will attack this when I start the build.
 
Also will be looking at filter options, the carb I purchased has trumpets installed, but for day to day driving I may look at a pipercross px600 or similar filter setup, again, if anyone has something else around that could fit, let me know if you are interested in selling.
 
I'll post updates as the build happens.
 
Cheers,

Rob
 
 

Hi Rob,
 
If you take an intake manifold gasket into the laser cutters they can use that as a template to make a flange from or just buy one of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PINTO-BIKE-CARB-THROTTLE-BODY-INLET-MANIFOLD-KIT-/320767024593?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aaf345dd1
 
I would try to get a set of the original mounting rubbers as thery are much more solid and the silicone ones will perish if you get any fuel on them as mine did.  You can get a set of rubbers from the UK delivered for around $40 AUD.
 
The  pipercross px600 is a popular option and you can also get the backing plates from the UK too.
 
As you have the USA carbs you'll probably need to drill out the idle mixture plugs as I needed to.
 
My car is being dyno'd at the moment with many many dramas but hopefully it'll all come together.
 
Any questions let me know.
 
Matt

This is exactly the kit I was looking at, and something to keep in mind for anyone who is looking, I emailed this seller, and you have to ask for the 20% VAT to be removed, bringing the price to about 48GBP... Postage was quoted as 45GBP to NSW...
 
What sort of problems are you having with the dyno Matt? I will be hoping to get the setup running just nice, before dyno, have you found the car to be OK for day to day since you have done this mod?

Where to begin -
 
Had a manifold leak due to the manifold distorting when it was welded up but pretty sure we have sorted that out.
 
Then one of the idle mixtures screws snapped off inside the carb as it was done up to tight.
 
Couple of the orings had dried out so we needed to get some new ones.
 
It starts first go and drives fine but when it gets to about 4k it refuses to rev any higher.  So maybe the float heights are wrong or the jets are too big  / small.
 
He's had it since last thursday and now we are at a point where everything is sorted and  we can start to tune it up. 
 
It drives great though and had a doen it again I would try to get a set of carbs that had come straight off a bike so I knew the seals and everything were all good.
 
Having said all that though they are second had carbs so these dramas are not unexpected and I am still very happy with how it turned out and will be awesome once sorted.
 
You can get a complete manifold posted to Oz for $290 from Danst Engineering which are beutifully made and may be a great deal easier then making one if you don't have the skills or equipment.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt

Sounds a bit of a hassle, will be good to hear if you get this all running well... I have heard of the problem of flange distortion, the premade manifold would be a good idea, but the whole idea of this project is to save some cash on an upgrade. I'll see how I go...
 
I'll have the carbs on the bench for a couple of weeks so Ill have plenty of time to do the seals and cleaning, syncing, jets and what not. Im going to start with 1.5mm primaries and go from there, the magazine article I posted in the pinto engines section suggests 1.6mm start.
 
Cheers,
 
Rob

Good stuff.
 
Make sure to replace the float bowl chamber screws with hex bolts.  They are notorious for stripping.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt

Got the car back tonight and it's running really well.
 
The car accelerates very well without hesitation and has a very smooth idle.
 
I am very happy indeed. 
 
The major hassle ended up being the cam timing.  Once that was sorted then the rest was fairly straight forward.
 
Cheers
 
Matt

Sounds good, out of interest how much did the dyno tune set you back?
 
The other thing I need to ask is where did you take the water pipe for the water cooled manifold to? Mine comes from the heater core, and I need to reroute it somewhere else... Was there anything else you needed to change around?
 
Going to order the manifold today, and hopefully things should be underway in a couple of weeks :)
 
Cheers,
 
Rob

Hi Mate,
 
About the $500 mark. For a weeks work and the amount of dicking around I think it's very cheap.
 
I just blocked off the water outlet from the manifold as I routed the heater lines as per the pic. I'd order the manifold without the outlet personally.
 
Any questions or issues let me know.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt