Hi Guys,
 
Thought I'd post up how I went about collecting the parts and getting the whole thing together.
 
Step 1.  Get your hands on the carbs.  I went for R1's as they have 40mm chokes and seem to be the most popular.  Mine are from '99 as after 2001 they went to fuel injection.
 

 
Step 2.  Manifold.  I got mine made from alloy through MartyMexico.  He used a inlet gasket to make the manifold plate and then the runners were made from there.
 

2012-02-17_19.44
 
Step 3.  Accelerator cable.  I got a universal cable from SMCKA so it fit onto the pedal and then the solderless screw nipple fit pefectly onto the carb end
 

 
Step 4.  Choke cable.  Any universaal one will do but you'll need another solderless screw nipple to fit it to the carbs
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Step 5.  Fuel pump.  The carbs need a low fuel pressure (2 -3 psi) so the standard pump is no good.  So you'll need one from a bike that has the same size carbs.  Mine is off a R1 as well so I know there won't be any fuel pressure issues.  Some people retain the standad fuel pump but use a regulator but I prefer just the one bike pump.  They have a pressure cut out so when the carbs are full the pump cuts out.
 
Most people who have issues with these carbs come down to incorrect fuel pressure.  These carbs only need around 2psi.  


 
Step 6.  Carb mounting runners.  These are fluro lined silicone so they won't break down when in contact with fuel.
 

 
Edit - The above runners ended up perishing due to the petrol.  Whilst the internal is protected the outside was ruined so I got a set of the OEM rubbers from eBay and they seal a greal deal better too.

Step 7.  You need to remove the float bowl covers to get at the main jets.  These need to be removed and then drilled out to 1.8mm.
 
2012-02-19_19.55
 
As my carbs were form the USA they had the mixture screws blocked as in the photo.
 

 
But once drilled out and a screw inserted the plug came out leaving this
 

 
Turn the mixture crews all the way in then out 3 full turns.  This will give a basic mixture to allow you to start the car
Turn over the carbs and remove the black plastice carb tops to get at the needle jets underneath.  Remove the needle jest and make sure the circlip is in the middle groove.  (Sorry I didn't take pics of this part)
 
 
 

Now mount the carbs on the manifold
 
2012-02-24 14... (Medium)
2012-02-24 14... (Medium)
 
Clear out the old carb and then mount the new ones
 
   
 
Attach the fuel lines (disregard the left fuel line.  I thought it was the return line but it's not needed)
 
2012-02-25 17... (Medium)
 
And that's pretty much it
 

 

 

Nothing left now but to hook up the choke and accelerator cable.
 
Mine started first go believe it or not.  Sounds crazy good.  Quite a simple mod too.
 
All up it probably cost me $600 but if you can make the manifold yourself this would nearly halve.
 
Next step is to get it tuned properly.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt 

what time to post this i was just looking at what need to be done!!!
 
i hope you meant 1.8mm for the jet size??
Also what angle do the carbs need to be from the block?
 
and what are the brass fitting for in the runners?
 
thanks for the info so far ill be interested in how it runs!
 
stu

Also do you know what the carbs are spaced at?

I have used these on a couple of engines, one road going pinto, and a 105E Anglia.  In both cases after tuning they work very well.  There was a tweak my carby man did to them to make them more pleasant as part throttle, will post it on here when I quiz him as to what it was.  We drilled the main as listed here (not sure on size) and made WOT mixtures right, then tuned the rest around that.  Used the standard fuel pump in both cases with no issues.  They work brilliantly
 
Cheers
Woz

Hi Stuart,
 
Yes, I meant 1.8mm.  
 
The angle doesn't really matter I am led to believe but ideally you want to have them so the float bowls are horizontal.  At a guess mine are on about 45deg angle.
 
The brass fittings are vaccuum takeoffs for the brake servo.
 
As to the spacing i am not too sure.  But I wouldn't pull them apart to change it.  I would just make the manifold to suit once you had the carbs to hand.  I have a drawing I can email you as I tried to post it but it's a PDF file and won't upload.
 
You can get the manifold from the UK for $180GBP inc postage.
 
Woz, Any extra tips would be awesome.
 
Cheers
 
Matt

Here is a quick guide on how to synch the carbs before bolting them on - 
 
To bench synch the carbs. Pull the carbs, run the idle knob all the way in to open up the butterflys. Using a the smooth end of a tiny drill bit as a feeler guage, adjust carbs 1 & 2, than 3 & 4, than 
make sure the two sets are matched by using the center adj. screw and guaging carbs 2 & 3. Once finished, back the idle adj knob all the way out, and then screw in untill you see the butterflys just move. This should set you back to just about correct on idle.

Now more fun Provided the the carbs are bench synched with great precision and patience, there are no vacuum leaks, and you own a carb synch, you can now go back and re-synch the carbs using the idle mixture screws. This will be touchy, as very small variations in the screws will be 
needed to get all the carbs mixed evenly. Isolate the synch from vibration by holding it up on something other than the handlebar. Adjust the idle mixture screws ever so slightly to even out any variation that the synch shows. Gently increase rpm, and you should notice the synch rise more evenly than before. And there should be little if any variation in synch levels at 3k rpm. The bike should cruise at 1/8 throttle much smoother now. And all light handed acceleration will be much stronger too. Ideally, an Exhaust Gas Analyzer should be used to do this. The nice type that reads CO2 and give stoichemetric burn ratios is the best way to make sure the carbs are super dialed. 
 
Cheers
 
Matt