2011/07/26 18:06:05
esky79
The sr20 conversion seems to be pretty popular so i thought i would make a thread about the conversion as a discussion/help thread about the conversion because there seems to be alot of other threads asking about the conversion etc

So this thread is a sort of roll call to every 1 on here that is carrying out the conversion tips tricks and help...

Every 1 on here has done the conversion differently... Different crossmembers, intercoolers, radiators, different budgets etc

So who on here has done the conversion or is doing the conversion post up if u need help or want to ask questions etc

Im using an s13 sr20det mainly because its cheaper to get hold of and didn't need the VCT that comes with the s14/s15 sr20s due to the lare aftermarket cams i will be using...

Ive maintained the factory cross member but my engine mounts r welded to the chassis rail and im using vl engine mount rubbers...

So wat r u others using in ur setups?
2011/07/26 18:20:37
jorgan92
Bout to start the conversion myself, Bought a crossmember, hoping all I need is VL mounts to attach it (where did you get yours from by the way I cant find them anywhere), Have a redtop, got it stupidly cheap. Just going to use a s14 5 speed cant justify the money to go all out on a z32 (although it is a smarter decision..... lucky)

What diff you running?

Have a HKS fuel rail, 850CC injectors and the cross member in my room, just need to get the turbo (gt2871r), manifold and poncams and Im ready to roll.
2011/07/26 18:58:46
esky79
Were did u buy a crossmember from? Mine only runs vl mounts because the whole thing was custom made and sr20 engine mounts r $400+ and vl mounts r strong and cheap...

Not sure were my fabricator got the mounts from but i would say genuine from Holden cus its jus down the road...

Ive got a 2003 hilux diff in mine because i got it cheap and was getting cut down anyways to suiy my wheels so didn't really wana buy som crusty old diff haha

The sr20 box with cop a bit of a thrashig but they r weak and ul get good at changing boxes if u give it to much of a hard time lol the z32 conversion isnt all thy expensive... I picked up my z32 box for 500 conversion plate and shifter mount ect was like 6/700 from memory but im not using it anymore... But to fit the z32 box u will need a new tunnel basicaly... The 2871 is a decent turbo get a .82 rear for it and u will make decent power and it will pull pretty hard wen it comes on boost mate runs that setup in his s13...
2011/07/26 20:06:53
jorgan92
Gonna get a .64 don't mind sacrificing a bit of power for response.
2011/07/26 20:15:09
esky79
Ull find ul gain about 5/600rpm in response between the 2 rears the .82 imo isnt laggy especially if ur going to be running poncams to... The .82 will give u power through to redline were as the .63 starts to run out of puff

Were did u get ur crossmember from man?
2011/07/26 20:49:32
jorgan92
Ahh was a guy on here, has a ca18 van, was looking at it on the engine the other day I think normal mounts should work, Ill give a mate a buzz and see if he has a spare set or is I can borrow Nismo ones to mock it up.
2011/07/26 20:56:02
esky79
Yer i would say they will be sr20 mounts man...
Hav u sorted intercooler/radiator etc yet?
2011/07/26 20:58:34
jorgan92
Nah just getting everything together ATM Then Ill take the car off the road and do it all when I get the Mini on the road :P
2011/07/28 11:39:58
Brett
You can also consider making engine mounts yourself. Mine cost me about $50 in steel, and a long weekend.

















2011/07/28 11:57:44
Brett
With strong engine mounts, I found an obvious week point - the cross member to chassis rail connection. 2 tiny little bolts each side have the responsibility of keeping your 300hp+ engine from tearing itself away from the car. Mine also had a stuffed thread on the insert within the chassis rail. Therefore decided to beef up this area.
There is a steel tube (3mm wall thickness) welded in the chassis rail. The bolts are 7/16inch, with a 3mm plate welded to underside of chassis rail.



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