I will start of by stating, I am no expert in engine building and someone like Danny or some of the other racing guys here who build and get built their racing engines will know from experience -

The Pinto cyl block is not a known weak point (except splitting bores with big boost on turbo engines), but it is the crank, rods, rod bolts and pistons that limit revs to 7,000 - to 7,500 from general consensus. Use a GOOD quality steel crank, GOOD quality rods and GOOD quality pistons, and providing your head/cam can pump enough in, your tolerances are suitable, the machining work is top notch, then the engine SHOULD be able to cope. To get an engine to be reliable at these revs though is a big $$$ exercise and not for the faint hearted or light of wallet. You should not need to re-invent the wheel as it has been done before, but you NEED to find someone who has done one, learen't from their mistakes, is willing to share their experience with you (this did most likley cost them $$$), and not those who supposedly know, but spout BS and will cost you $$$....

You NEED to be very clear on this before you start, and do ALOT of research too, as unless you have lots of $$$, and time to experiment and experience the failures along the way. People like Wozza and Danny who have been there and done it; are people to listen to.Those who have only been into Escorts for a year or so, keep blowing (standard) things up and asking stupid questions like what tolerances to use for valve clearances, but still proffer suggestions as to how to build a 9,000prm engine are people to NOT listen to.. (without naming any people specifically) - There is a lot of bad / rubbish advice out there that is just plain wrong - so choose carefully.... (we have all been got, but try to make sure it is not something really expensive....)

Just a couple of rambling thoughs on a crappy weather Sunday morning.......

nicely put na.

Hey nic thanks for the advice,And you are right in what you say.My engine builder has build motors for 30 plus years and can only listen to his advice.And he is the one that wants me to buy a 205 block,as you have to start with a strong block and the 205 block seems to be the answer,all the rest of the goodies i know i have to do anyway.It is bit of an over kill, but these revs are reachable.but are still looking for a block, if no luck here in aust will have to ring some one like burtons. But thanks for the input,and Sunday was poo pooy weather ,i was racing at sandown...

This one has been interesting but it's getting no where
Unless you are chasing 400hp+ you can get away with a standard Escort/Cortina block and I have seen a few guys do it and there is no trick to it as a good friend runs one in his MK1 Improved Production car and his has more than 300bhp at the rear tyres and only runs standard blocks AND THEY ARE NOT FAILING!!!!!!!!!
If your engine builder is demanding a 205 block for a naturally aspirated engine then find another engine builder as he doesn't know pinto's/NA-YB's as it's absolutely not necessary! and if anything it's a drawback as they weigh a little more.
To make the bottem end idiot proof it's in the pistons, rods etc as yes you will need a decent forged piston and a steel rod but you need to pay attention piston weights, rod lengths and weights,clearences and ring packs flywheel and clutch weights and last of all the crank!
A standard pinto crank when prepared correctly is good for 8500rpm all day long and 9000rpm for shorter periods and this does not come from internet development or word of mouth. My own pinto ran for 9 seasons with good horsepower with peak power at 8300rpm and 9000rpm used at shorter events and 8500rpm most gear changes for circuit races and the only reason it was replaced was the new owner after two years of launching it with that much axle tramp you'd think the diff was going to climb in with you, I found one longitudinal crack on a rebuild, THE CRANK NEVER ACTUALLY FAILED!!!!!!!
Stop wasting your time searching for a 205 block and do some research on the reciprocating parts that will actually make a differences

Danny

If your chasing those type of revs be prepared to pay lots of money for little return. you'll definitely need to dry sump and you'll probably be losing power in the upper rev ranges, If you speak to most engine builders they'll tell you 7-7500 is plenty cause you'll want to change gears when HP is at its peak. Look at alot of super cars eg: Porsche GT2's they don't rev high and have 300KW plus at their disposal.

Danny help this guy some more mate - he is allright. He will listen.

Lincoln give the guy my number and I'll explain it as I can't be bothered answering this question for the umpteenth time on this forun and others then have stupid comments from ill informed internet guru's who have no real experience with the engines

Danny

Hi danny, thanks for the input.will not waste any more of your time on the forum, but please give me a call. 0418372396 many thanks. peter.

Did you listen to Danny?

Hi linc,give me a ring mate. 0418372396.