Just got one of my MKII's on the road and during the recent hot weather the temp started get too hot for comfort. The engine is a mild Pinto and it does have the 2 litre radiator with a thermo fan.
Well to cut a long story short I went to a local radiator shop and they suggest I get it rebuilt with a three core centre using the original top and bottom tanks, as this has more cores and therefore more fins the cooling effect should be better.
A couple of questions I have are
Is $600 to do this job to expensive
Are there problems with Alloy radiators (as this builder says do not use them as they are prone to corrosion)

the problem with alloy radiators is that you cant clean them properly without cutting them open. standard radiators can have the tanks removed rod flushed and then put back on without rewelding. $600 is expensive for just getting a standard radiator 3 cored. i would be expecting to pay no more then $400 for recoring. Rod flushing should only be about a 1/4 of that.

$70 for a inline fiter means never having to cut open your alloy radiator.

One of the problems with corrosion was the problem of stray current corroding the radiator.....I suspect this could be easily fixed with a decent earth strap though.
 
Is a three core radiator really nescesary and what sort of of radiators are people using if not using the standard ones?

The mkI RS2000's use a radiator from a MKI (or maybe MKII) Cortina which is a great deal thicker.
 
Matt

Thanks for that Matt
 
I have been looking at the stuff you have been posting concerning your build and I was wondering what rad you are using?
 
My car is a very mild tune pinto, which I use every day with a few track days a year. Do I need to go to the lengths of bigger rads etc, or is a good clean cooling system and a good fan and thermostat setup just as effective.
 
My financial advisor (see wife) does limit my options.

Mk1 Lotus

$70 for a inline fiter means never having to cut open your alloy radiator.

 
Got an example of what you use??

So what was a good way to go here....? Keep the standard radiator and get it recored, or go for the alloy...im just trying to decide which way to go.

Items to keep in mind.
1.  Copper is more efficient at heat transfer than Aluminium.
2.  Corrosion is much more common in Aluminium due to:  the alumium, cast iron block, coolant and the earthing of the  block produces a Galvanic Cell.  This causes the Aluminim to sacrificialy (as used on ships) protect the cast iron bloke, ie the radiator corrodes.  An electrical circuit is produced from the Aluminium through the coolant to the block and returns via the car body to the Aluminim.  The rate of corrosion of the Aluminium is inversly proportional to the resistivity of the coolant.  Ie distiilled water less corrosion  (less current, milliamps) tap water then coolants and finally if sea water (large currents, amps) was used, rapid corrosion.
3.  The solution to the Alumium corrosion problem is very simple.  (a) DO NOT link the radiator to metal work with a strap.  This will produce  corrosion.
                                                                                                        (b) Electrically insulate the radiator from the metalwork.  By useing plastic insulating blocks.
                                                                                                        (c) Only use distilled water ( corrosion inhibitors generally do not stop corrosion)
 
Aluminium radiators were installed in cars as they are lighter are cheaper.
 
I would stay with the copper radiator and do the following:  Check the condition of the cooling fins and core blockages.
                                                                                               If with spec:  Investigate why it is getting hot ( timing, fuel mixtures, thermostat, faulty head gasket  etc )
                                                                                               If nothing obvious  upgrade to a 3 row.  Shop around for prices, $400 max.
                                                                                               If stuffed, depending on price renew with 2 or 3 row.
 
If any boby requires further information on electrical insulation or insulating methods for an Aluminim radiator, they can contact me through the forum. Plastic insulating blocks approx $50 per car. 
 
Regards
John
Capri Spares

Sorry Rodlea,
 
I only just saw your question now.  I am just runing the standard 2ltr radiator with the shroud.
 
My advice would be to make sure your thermostat is working well or even replace it and give the whole system a flush.
 
Also as you are runing a thermo fan they can have issues due to not retaining the shroud and therefore not getting the most effecient draw or push through the radiator.
 
You could try putting the standard fan & shroud back on and see how you go.
 
Once you know the standard system can't cope for sure then the 3 core jobbie may be the best way to go.
 
Cheers
 
Matt