Hi All

Time for my mk2 to undergo a big transformation, shes a 1600 manual, was thinking of dropping her motor into my mk1 1300, my question is do i need to swap the box too or are they the same ?, will i need to source another diff/axle ?or use the mk2 one?

with the diff, its probablly a 4.11:1 ratio so it will more then likely be revving its tits off doing highway driving, so you may have to change that? i'm not too sure of the other stuff though

Everything is interchangable

Diff housing and leaf springs are different between mk1 and 2, Mk1 has 50mm wide springs and Mk2 had 60mm wide springs, you will snap diff u bolts if the car is driven hard with a mk2 diff in a mk1 [:I]

Thats a straightforward swap, I would pull the motor and box as a unit. Some early 1300's have an odd box with the box and bellhousing integral as one unit but I think the tailshafts / splines etc are all the same.

My money on the diff ratios is that you will find they are both 3.77:1 so leave that as is. A MK2 rear end will go straight in , just use the right bottom spring / shock mount plates. The only advantage to doing that is if its a genuine 2 litre rear end you will get the bigger 9 inch drum brakes.

I have run 2 litre Mk1 rally cars for about 10 years, both cars using the MK2 rear ends with early MK1 axles (see below) and am yet to break a U bolt, I don't know what the theory is on that one?

You will likely find that the axles in your original 1300 Mk1 are actually stronger than what is common in a MK2 2 litre rear end. The axles to have are the ones without the big boss on the outside of the hub, the MK1 axles actually have a little more material around the spline area (MK2 axles are machined down near the spline to try and remove the stress raiser that happens with the twisting motion, sound idea engineering wise but when they break, they usually break right at that point).

Cheers

Shaun B

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Originally posted by shaunb

The only advantage to doing that is if its a genuine 2 litre rear end you will get the bigger 9 inch drum brakes.

I have run 2 litre Mk1 rally cars for about 10 years, both cars using the MK2 rear ends with early MK1 axles (see below) and am yet to break a U bolt, I don't know what the theory is on that one?

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I didn't get the why the ubolts would break either.....

I always thought that the mk2 drums were all the same....hope you're right Shaun, I've got a 2L rear about to go into my mk1, cool!

Early Mk2 rear drums were 8" same as all Aussie Mk1 Escorts. Later 1.6 and 2Lt had the 9" drums as did some early Mk1 RS Escorts in Pommieland...

Some Mk1's had 3.9 or even 4.1 diffs in them to compensate for the weedy little engines.. (Anything under 2Lt is a little weedy!)
( a freinds 1.1 Mk1 PV years ago even had a 4.4)

Later Mk1 gearboxes and Mk2 Escort gearboxes are the ones to go for as the early ones had the integral bell housing and are a little fragile...

1.3 to 1.6 swap should be dead simple. Engine mounts, radiator, gearbox and clutch should all be the same (or at least interchangable) and the only real differnece is that the 1.6lt block is about an inch taller.... Should be enough movement in the exhaust to allow for that, but if not then the exhaust may need modification.. Use the 1.6 carby and dizzy as they match the larger engine....