Nice.

I have a standard 2wd cos flywheel taking up space here.

Yours for nix if you need it - it has got no ring gear though. Melbourne

Yeah it is very tight in there, I have just gone and modified my engine mounts and trimmed the lip on my firewall to get everything 25mm further back for a bit more room for better fans, fingers crossed it will be worth the effort. I looked into an electric water pump about a year ago and it would definately make way for fan space.. I think the alternator is the only major thing in your road then. I was worried about the reliability of the EWP as a lot of people seem to have trouble with them.

There are a couple of guys up here that have run some fairly serious cosworth powered IP cars with steel cases (obviously power limited by the restrictor) and they have survived. I guess try it with a better input bearing and see how you go. I was told that there are two types of W50 box one of which came out of the twin cam and has a better input bearing. I am not sure of the spec of your turbo or what cams you are running ?

Try to avoid running a smaller clutch, I am not exactly sure what trickery Mark has done to use the cosworth clutch but from my measurements the mounting PCD for the cossie clutch would be bolting into the pinto ring gear rather than the flyweel. I use a custom flywheel with a pinto ring gear/starter etc and I wouldn't recommend it unless you go to a twin plate clutch straight up.. I have had untold trouble with clutches.

Cheers.

Yeh thats what I found as well regarding the PCD and ring gear. I'll look into the 4x4 starter and I guess even the possibility of putting a new stater flange on the bellhousing. Yeh i'll definattly stick with the 11in plate. I'm looking at about 500hp from the motor, the mountune cams are 9mm ex 12mm in for the lift, but I haven't dialled them yet for duration numbers, I've got ARP head and main studs all through it. You guys will cringe at this but i'm using a pinto block, I've got an early one from a TC cortina HC motor, and it actually has extra bracing cast into the side of it???? I know the bores are a fraction thinner, but i'm only running 20thou over pistons and I figure when cosworth designed the block, it was expect to produce 500-600hp for 8,9,10 hours at a time, If I try this, I would lose my licence in the first hour! I am how ever looking into get the block cryoed before I bolt the lot together.

What sort of cash did you want for that flywheel lincoln?

Welcome MR King.
I have been a fan of the Cortina 2l blocks, but i would be grout filling the block if you want it stay together with 2 bars of boost up its bum.
Looking great anyway dude, looking forward to more updates on this project.

Nix means nothing mate.

You have to freight though.

quote:

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Originally posted by kingcosworth

Thanks for the advice, it's good to hear from someone who has gone through these headaches, I just want to clarify some points. Who machined up your gearset for you, and how were the old ones failing, stripped teeth?? How did you go about put the pinto ring gear on it, admitingly it has been a while since I played with the flywheel, but it looked that the pinto gear couldn't go on the front in the stock pinto spot becuase of the bigger pressure plate, it could go on the back but there would be a flange created infront of the ring gear! Which set up are you running??? The other problem I have is I have machined off the inside of the flywheel weight, so I can't knock that diameter down anymore

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...One of my machinist I use at work who happens to be a rally driver machined the standard cossie flywheel. We heated the ring gear and dropped it on the same place as the original. It is only a few mm off the outside to be removed.
Send me an email with specifics, I can answer from there...Might take a phone call. Would not agree to the use of a pinto block for big boost.

Thanks Lincoln, sounds good, can we email or something (I'm new to all this) and work out the details. Does anyone know if the 4x4 starter has the same bolt pattern as a standard pinto. It seems the pinto blocks cortina, escort, 205 are basically the same and can crack bores under high combustion pressures, the long stud conversion on the 200 blocks would be to take the tensile force off the bores, minimising the fatigue. This is what they ended up doing on the bathurst sierras to keep them hanging together for the race, but even then they where custom blocks from ford with massive bore thickness and solid iron from the bottom of the water pump hole to the mains.

Yes bolt pattern is the same for pinto and 4x4 cossie starter. Long studs are not necessarily the beez neez to holding the block together. There is more to consider than that...I know many examples without it and not trouble, it helps if the block chosen is a good one...

oh yeh sorry, I didn't mean to imply that I was going to long stud it, I agree, it's not needed for my application. Thanks for the info on the starters, I'll do some scrounging and sort something out. I got all my window trims back from the anodizers finally, that was a two and a half month wait, but there not to bad, got all my door handles and locks back from the chrome platers to, heres a photo just after I bonded them in. sorry about the fuzziness!