Jordy, you will need to run either a panhard rod or watts link when 4linking as you need to locate the diff left to right, when running a watts like with a 4 link it will be called a 4link, and this is the better option over a panhard rod as panhard will tend to allow side step under squat in one direction due to the ARC movement of the panhard bar.

Im currently study the above atricle and trying to come up with a way of not running turrets as i do not belive on a street/track driven car you need the shock length that was required in rally use.

Thanks for the info so far guys!!

Thanks for the info.

I will be interested to find out if your able to avoid the use of turrets.

Jordy, i spent a good hour on the phone today to mcdonald bros racing and am waiting to hear back form there but there is no reason why short shocks cannot be used providing correct mounting to save space and weight, im looking into their "street 4Link Kit" now and the floor pan will still need to be cut, and possibly some space into the boot floor to run short captive style shocks as opposed to a turreted coil over similar to a ladder bar setup, drop me a pm with your number and will have a chat if you want.

Ta Matty

Let us know how it goes... saying that my parents said today how much longer is my car going to take, cause its in their garage, and I was like 'Well now i want to put other stuff (4link and a YB) in it that means getting rid of stuff that I've purchased ectect' Soooo long story short Its been decided that it will be finished with the parts I have so that's single leaf and a pinto and if I want to 4link and Cosworth it I need to wait till I have a job and my own place, might as well do another car AHHHH i have a small ford disease!.

Oh well when i finish uni and have a full time job I will have my whole pay check minus food and rent to spend on it =P

Anyways back on topic please keep this updated as It will be a great future reference.

That is a great report that guy did. Very interesting

Ideal Situation for your rear shocks is to locate them vertical on the centre line of your rear axle, in this position they are damping at there optimum, the reason ford positioned them the way they did is to resist twist under torque and by tipping them over to the centre of the car they also offer slight axle location and help with sideways motion of the rear axle, although not verywell. If you decide to four link the rear end and incorporate either a Watts link or panard rod the rear end location is all but sorted, thus your shock absorbers can now concentrate purely on damping and not all the other stuff so you can relocate them to their ideal position, to do this you will need turrets, when you have turrets you will have the option to keep your leaf springs and slipper them to resist stress on the front spring mount now everything is positively located, or remove the leafs altogether and go with a coil over set up.

I have built my own 4 link set up. It has some advantages and disadvantages of kit units.
I am running a watts link which is far better than a pan hard rod and using the mount on the rear of the falcon diff that i have had shortened.
The bottom link runs from the original front spring mounting point back to below the diff housing and i have used EL falcon top links which are an s shape so that I can mount the coil over on the inside of the chassis allowing more room in the wheel arch.  The geometry may still require some tweaking but seems to work ok. The other advantage is that I still have the factory rear seat.
I have used coils with 10inch springs and they only have 100mm of travel so they are quite short (approx 350-380mm eye to eye fully open for memory) Running coilovers makes it far easier than to have shock mounts and leaf springs or coils mounted some other way.
Have a look in the project section under BLWNRS for pictures of what i have done. Like I said, there are some improvements to be made in the future now that I have more knowledge.