deano
Hey Tim, whilst your at it, would you by any chance have a RHS 2l engine mount bracket? or alternator mount? from an engine being scrapped or lying around?
These are my 2 main "missing bits'', and once I have sourced them, I can progress to the next stage.
re ^^^, I paid $100 alone for balance and flywheel lighten, and s/h flywheel was much more than you are asking...
thanks
Dean
Hi Dean,
Depending on the amount of flywheel material removal $100.00 is good mates rates if it was also dynamically balanced you got a hell of a deal. be aware of lightened cast iron flywheel that you do not spin them up too hard. I would not trust a old cast flywheel over 7000 full stop, even though I know they have been used over this limit.
Making the rotating mass in the engine lighter will make the engine more responsive under acceleration but will also mean it will decelerate faster which depending on the use of the car may be a disadvantage.
Remember to break all sharp edge on the machined flywheel as these are a cause of stress raiser that will allow a crack to start from.
Believe me when I say that there are tons of kinetic energy in any flywheel at 6500rpm let alone 8000 or 9000rpm. Standing start racing and hill climb starts also impose a lot of extra load along with better ceramic clutches as the load is applied in a shorter time and with generally a lot less slip. If you must use a cast iron flywheel properly fit a 6mm steel or 6mm 6061 T6 Aluninium plate over the transmission hump and down into both footwell as protection for you. Better still fit a steel flywheel for your own safety. Just make sure you purchase from a known source as what looks to be a good ebay deal could be just as dangerous.
Good flywheel manufacturers not suppliers will be able to send you a burst strength or rpm data sheet which verifies that their flywheels have been tested to a known standard which is written on the data sheet and varies around the world.
We had a starter liberate from a pinto on an engine dyno that split the ring gear and it cut is way out of the aluminium bellow housing section of the dyno set this was at about 5000 rpm and happened so fast we did not react to shutdown the engine down until the starter was seen in two pieces against the wall of the engine dyno room, what is left of nose section of the stater is a paper weight on the desk of the owner of the engine dyno as a reminder, do not enter the room when running engines above idle leak checks or you may not come out breathing with all your body parts. This happened in the ninteen eighties and I can still hear the noise in made like it happened yesterday. We needed several beers to let the adrenaline return to normal after this incident.
I have a r/h pinto engine mount $15 plus postage, but do not have any serviceable alternator brackets
Please PM me your contact mobile or email address to 0435 997 945 to progress further.
Regards
Tim