2013/09/09 09:00:43
sniffy
72mk1
We'll you be using bubble arches at all?




Yes mate, bubble arches are going on soon, and no, not from Brizzy, although I did live there about 5yr ago.
 
I have some ADR compliant bucket seats, made these brackets to mount them as low and far back as possible. Made from 35 x 35 x 3mm and 75 x 75 x 4mm RHS, with 3mm end plates.

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2013/09/11 13:47:10
ESCORTWIL145
Looks great, keep up the good work.....
2013/09/17 14:03:36
sniffy
I decided an SR20DET was the best option for me. Low cost, decent power, heaps of upgrade options, good local support to tune, generally a good bang for buck motor.
So I bought a front cut, nearly 4 yrs ago .  
The engineer said it should be pretty straight forward to certify if I use the factory computer, turbo and all polution gear. This is the plan, to start with, with plans for an upgrade once going.
The front cut:

 
Engine out and mounted:

This is mounted over a standard world cup crossmember, with stearing rack at standard height.
I had to modify the sump to get it to sit this low. You can see the bottom of the sump hangs low, it is equal hieght to the bottom of the cross member. I will make up a sump guard just to be sure.

The turbo has just enough clarence over the engine mount. I will trim the mount a bit before getting it powder coated, to allow for a bigger turbo in the future.
I just got the sump back from the aluminium welders, will post some pics later.
 

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2013/09/17 14:22:35
sniffy
A couple of helpers for the intercooler install:

I bought a 2.5" universal intercooler pipe kit from ebay, along with a few extra silicon bends / reducers etc.

Headlights in to show clearence:


 

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2013/09/17 14:35:37
sniffy
Some of you may have seen this trick before, I stole the idea from the internet somewhere.
When you cut intercooler pipes for a custom install you cut off the factory bead roll end. This is a $12 tool to reinstate the bead roll, so your silicon hoses don't blow off
Get an old pair of vise grips (and buy yourself a new pair), an exhaust clamp the same size as your intercooler pipes, an appropriate size washer and your welder. The pictures show how it works:



 

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2013/10/01 13:41:18
sniffy
I wanted the engine to sit as low and far back as possible, without modifying the firewall and with the steering rack at standard height. To do this I cut a section out of the sump. I figured if I am going to go to the trouble of doing this, I may as well cut out as much as possible. I nearly overdid it and risked the sump warping, but got away with it. I made up the aluminium sections to weld in and had a professional welder do the welding.
Before:


And after:



 

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2013/10/01 14:03:03
sniffy
The stock turbo was sitting a bit to close to the engine mount, not allowing room for the planned future upgrade to a bigger turbo, so off came the mount for a quick trim.

Not a huge amount of room, but I'm not planning on a huge turbo, just something a bit bigger.

And a few pics to show clearance around the rack.


Skinny front sway bar, part of the tension strut kit.

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2013/10/01 20:05:21
ratta tat tat
sniffyNot a huge amount of room, but I'm not planning on a huge turbo, just something a bit bigger.

 
Disco potato ;D
Awesome project. Love the vice-grips trick
2013/10/05 11:54:58
evobda2
Some lovely work there and very neatly done!
Wheres abouts are you situated if you dont mind me asking?
2013/10/08 09:13:08
krt10
sump looks very similar to mine. it helped alot with engineering to have standard steering geometry.
Looks like an awesome project mate. keep the pics coming 
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