Yeah, warm beer

This is good, I am learning stuff. 
 
Quote for crank was Dandy Engines and my mate can do the rods. 
 
VW Pistons .  The price is a bit cheaper as i don't want the cylinders so landed they're around $150 give or take.
 
Obviously, I need to do more research and speak to a few pros but everything leads me to believe that money spent on a strong bottom end and then as much as possible on head flow is the way to go.
 
Thanks for the frank discussion.
 
Matt
 
 
 

Matt75

This is good, I am learning stuff. 

Quote for crank was Dandy Engines and my mate can do the rods. 

VW Pistons .  The price is a bit cheaper as i don't want the cylinders so landed they're around $150 give or take.

Obviously, I need to do more research and speak to a few pros but everything leads me to believe that money spent on a strong bottom end and then as much as possible on head flow is the way to go.

Thanks for the frank discussion.

Matt

 
What is the compression height of the VW pistons?
 
Woz

35mm, so a fair bit will need to be taken off the block to get them to sit flush.
 
Matt

Piston price is correct, they will be AA's, a Mahle copy. Hard to get without buying the barrel's as well though.
 
The rod to stroke ratio subject is completely mis-understood by most people.
 
Rod angle, thrust load and dwell times are part of the story however the main reason to alter it is to make the best use of the piston speed curve and match it to best effect with cam timing and head flow to achieve best cylinder fill and even then you can either way.
 
An efficient engine not being revved beyond 7000-7,500 will benefit from more dwell @ BDC = short rod.  
 
As for stroker cranks how many do want? can do 80mm, 82mm, 84mm and 88mm in 4340 fully counterweighted with standard journal size. Rod lengths to suit N/A and forced.

Thanks Paul,
 
That makes sense.  
 
So, as a starting point for an engine build should you select the cam first and then build the engine to suit?
 
Cheers,
 
Matt

Matt75

Thanks Paul,

That makes sense.  

So, as a starting point for an engine build should you select the cam first and then build the engine to suit?

Cheers,

Matt

 
The starting point is working out what you want to do with it, then you build your whole engine package to suit.  Making everything work together is the key, not just picking one component.  Thats what will give you the best power for your needs.
 
In regard to your previous statement in regard to balancing, the more you play around with stroking etc, the more cost is involved in balancing to get it back where it needs to be.  So the cost in balancing goes up compared to normal.
 
Cheers
Woz

I agree with Paul dunstan read the lattest edition of classic ford. 2.2l cheap as chips, and strong.

Hey MickB, I haven't read it.  Is it a good article.
 
Apologies to Paul for not responding to his earlier post.
 
I will endeavor to get a copy or can someone post up the article?
 
Cheers
 
Matt 

I would but I subscribe through Apple Newstand so I doubt I can distribute.