Perfect time to try "hotwire" 1 minute test was when you had points and condenser installed, but..........
 
If your electronic system has only one wire to POS side of elec coil, you can still perform same hotwire test
 
It appears you're making a mountain out of a grain of sand .......... 
                   I would feel extremely unhappy if I ignored the suggestion of a Qualified Mechanic and went thru
what you're going thru and then found the "hotwire" test proved your problem was a simple POS wire from coil to
Ign Sw , or BAT pos wire to IGN Sw, with the worst scenario being a crook Ign Sw !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BEE VEE
Perfect time to try "hotwire" 1 minute test was when you had points and condenser installed, but..........
 
If your electronic system has only one wire to POS side of elec coil, you can still perform same hotwire test
 
It appears you're making a mountain out of a grain of sand .......... 
                   I would feel extremely unhappy if I ignored the suggestion of a Qualified Mechanic and went thru
what you're going thru and then found the "hotwire" test proved your problem was a simple POS wire from coil to
Ign Sw , or BAT pos wire to IGN Sw, with the worst scenario being a crook Ign Sw !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know what your saying , but rad is leaking and clogged so it was due for a change , I just fitted head gaskets as I wasn't happy with the previous lot..  to do the hot wire test I need to drive the car , I can have it sitting on idle for ages and it wont stall,  I need to do a road test , sometimes I can go for a 1 hr drive it wont stall then all then other times a ten min run will stall .. so its hard to do the hot wire test until I can drive it..  if I have the 1.5 ohm coil would I have to use different coil , or would I need to install a external ballast resistor to it ..  as the standard starts at 12 volt to coil the reduces down to 9 volt if I just by pass it wont the coil get really hot at 12v continuous feed 

Regulated voltage is 14.4v so if you bypass the resistor for too long you risk damaging the coil and other ign system components.  Even with the resistor electrical fires and melted ign switch connectors were the reason many people started fitting relays in their elect system.

still looking for radiator and wasn't sure about the length of the ones on ebay as mine is like 580 width from mounting bracket to bracket .. also was looking for any other option I might see for a bigger rad in the car to keep cool as im more likely to be driving in traffic these days in sydney
 
so I came across this one thinking I might be able to mod it to fit the capri what do you blokes think or has anybody used a bigger one of another make to fit the v6 slam panel  im thinking i can cut the back shroud of and make new mounting tabs to fit the capri its a bit wider than the stock v6
rad mine is width 550 bracket to bracket 90mm from face of bracket to radiator face with of rad core is about 50mm  
height is 470mm or 495 to top of radiator cap
 https://www.ebay.com.au/i...884147af301632d89b3dc8

 

hink this one is about the closest one I can find that should be able to mod and mount up

All over for effect, efficiency and classic "looks" , nothing beats ORIGINAL when it comes to radiators in mho of 50 years experience............  my V6 has had the same original rad since car was new in 1972 (yes 48 years) and runs so cool along with a 82 deg 'Stat, that I removed the fan blades over 3 years ago .........  always sits on 1/2 way mark and never goes into inner Melbourne grid-lock stress. Strictly normal moving traffic of at least 60kph in metro. Always run 33% concentrated AF/AB with 66% demineralised water straight out of the Fridge Filtered water system ! 
(When you see the crap in the water you (should) save in shower-bucket waiting for cold to turn hot, you'd never use unfiltered tap water again !)
 Same as above goes for my 57 FE Holden, 1965 Valiant and both 351C V8's, etc

BEE VEE
All over for effect, efficiency and classic "looks" , nothing beats ORIGINAL when it comes to radiators in mho of 50 years experience............  my V6 has had the same original rad since car was new in 1972 (yes 48 years) and runs so cool along with a 82 deg 'Stat, that I removed the fan blades over 3 years ago .........  always sits on 1/2 way mark and never goes into inner Melbourne grid-lock stress. Strictly normal moving traffic of at least 60kph in metro. Always run 33% concentrated AF/AB with 66% demineralised water straight out of the Fridge Filtered water system ! 
(When you see the crap in the water you (should) save in shower-bucket waiting for cold to turn hot, you'd never use unfiltered tap water again !)
 Same as above goes for my 57 FE Holden, 1965 Valiant and both 351C V8's, etc

mine is the same only ever gets just above the blue when cruising at night or normal driving and in summer at times to half way now, where before it only ever got to between the blue and half way  , but Sydney is no escaping traffic its always there.  I do prefer the oem to alloy.   when caught in traffic it gets to half way real quick and on comes the thermos fan , I just don't like the way it gets to half way real quick in traffic.  cant really avoid traffic when living in the Sydney city suburbs.
I have been looking at a recore and quoted 600 for it. I also been looking at fitting a slightly bigger crossflow one as well that will sit under the bonnet in its home some just to big or to high.. the only couple I have seen might work but are just a tad bigger in the core .. im thinking of going to a rad mob who has universal ones that might work for now .. looking at this style now .. still have not fixed the stalling issue as of yet 
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/i...d5e:g:fgwAAOSw~~5cRU-R
 

 

 ..................I can have it sitting on idle for ages and it wont stall................ 


 
These are your words. They tell me that while idling and behaving, your car is not shaking and moving as normal on the road, so the "bad connection" is just staying connected enough to run her at idle, and not going open circuit and stalling the engine as soon as road movement causes open circuit somewhere in ignition circuit.
 
Has yours got "Steering Lock", or is it pre-1971/72?
 
INSIST on getting your original RAD "rodded" out (top tank off) assuming core doesnt look rotten ........  most Rad shops would condemn a Brand New genuine oem Rad as they know there so much profit in a new rad or even a new CORE ! .........  human nature and the economy.  Keep trying till you get a "tradesman" who is happy and confident to "rod" it out and re-solder top tank AND both hose nipples .............. why am I saying this? ... You wont listen !
Go for the chinese special. At least you'll have a second backup for when you go back to original.
 

BEE VEE
 

..................I can have it sitting on idle for ages and it wont stall................ 


 
These are your words. They tell me that while idling and behaving, your car is not shaking and moving as normal on the road, so the "bad connection" is just staying connected enough to run her at idle, and not going open circuit and stalling the engine as soon as road movement causes open circuit somewhere in ignition circuit.
 
Has yours got "Steering Lock", or is it pre-1971/72?
 
INSIST on getting your original RAD "rodded" out (top tank off) assuming core doesnt look rotten ........  most Rad shops would condemn a Brand New genuine oem Rad as they know there so much profit in a new rad or even a new CORE ! .........  human nature and the economy.  Keep trying till you get a "tradesman" who is happy and confident to "rod" it out and re-solder top tank AND both hose nipples .............. why am I saying this? ... You wont listen !
Go for the chinese special. At least you'll have a second backup for when you go back to original.
 


its got steering lock … I swapped out radiator with a alloy one I modded to get me by . will  recore std one . cooling is pretty good now even on a 35dg day was just over the blue .. just.. but I still get the stalling , im going to rip the ignition out and check that . also was thinking of by passing resistor wire with 12v coil and ignition feed .. it can sit without stalling doesn't stall when moving just when sitting at ldle at lights etc at times.  I thought id put on the holley just to try again brought a new f150 throttle cable  tried it but the same old crap still stalls ,   so today ill check ignition switch , and buy a new 12v coil and wire that up to the accuspark see if it makes a difference.
 
the stalling seem to occur when I go for a drive and turn it off the restart it . and even at home , once I start it if I don't turn it off it will go for a while . but if I turn it off it will start the stalling issue .. ive changed half the stuff in the engine bay so now im going to go with the resistor wire  and check also the back of the ignition..  ive read a faulty tacho can or might make it stall my works spot on so not sure it it would be that
 

Can't believe how much you're punishing yourself !
Brings to mind the saying. "You can point a horse to water but you can t make him drink it "