Those electronic conversions are bad, the company started giving you heat proof grease to put under the module but they still fail when hot. The issue with them is the where you attach the power in wire, it needs to be prior to the in line resistor, also your coil needs to be a Resistor type eg GT40R

well thought I had it sorted  went to all ford day  no probs on the way down the freeway.. waited in line np probs drove home went for a feed got stuck in some local traffic and it did it again only once ..
 
thought id take it out again on the weekend and it started to do it again does most of it when its warm over the blue  just under half way on the temp then at times will do it when its just on the blue .. 
 
worse thing is I can let it idle at home all day and nothing happens but when I take it out it has a mind of its own when it will do it ...
 
was thinking of buying a 350 holley to put on but the price for a new one is bit expensive and am a bit hesitant to buy one and not fix the prob … ill go thru the coil again and test that its a accuspark 1.5 ohm coil  with the accuspark electric ignition  .. I have changed all leading up to the carb from fuel pump 1-6 psi to filter and carb filter as well …  I have just brought a regulator in thinking its soften up the float needle by the pressure but its the same pump as old one, which had no probs ..   im still leaning towards carb as when it stalls it will start right back up.  and when its in stalling mode I keep revs up over the 1k and it wont stall  unless I take my foot off and let it idle .. I re did the whole carb changed every thing in there new every everything carby cleaned it blew it out with air in every hole etc , blew out the idle circuit emulsion tubes jets etc ...  ill order new points and condenser and throw that back on with the gt 40r coil  and see what happens …  the only other thing I can think it is a manifold leak when it gets a bit warm expansion causes more air to pass..  I sort of have a feeling it could be manifold gasket as well as I do notice the revs when warm will rise about 100 rpm at times and then drop at times but its not hunting at all tho  and holds idle well when it idles doesn't rise and fall … once at the light it stalled got it started took off and stalled while trying to take off  ..unless there is some loose wire somewhere that is not earthed out...
 
all I know its got me stumped as what it can be …  back in the day I could throw another carb to check it but these days they are just hard to find in good working order even if its just to borrow to test it out for a couple runs … its giving me the ****s tho   
 
as for the accuspark yes they did give me the grease to put under it and the first accuspark I fitted just didn't work out of the box …    there isn't much choice I noticed for electronic ignition they are nearly all the same with just a different name on them ..  another thing I noticed is first run it will go ok then if I turn it off and grab a bite etc come back to the car 30 mins or 1 hr later that's when it starts to do it …  
 

Idle jets blocked or PCV valve gummed up?

Rod......
You dont think 15 minutes fitting points and condenser is better than 15 hours of all the other work and stress that has not solved the problem ?  
.............................Also check for "carbon tracking" inside dizzy cap AND ohms test your LEADS.
 
I have Quality spare NOS Cap rotor condenser and rotor made in Germany  .......   unlike the repro junk thats on ebay and in shops that are designed with inferior materials so as not to last. Mine are much dearer initially than the chinese repros, but it's a no brainer if mine outperform and outlast.
Quality BAKELITE Cap and Rotor have MATCHING BRASS AIR GAP TERMINALS
 
cheers

PCV valve is not likely to be spasmodic & more likely to show its weakness when Oil Cap is blocked or someone incorrectly fitted a ventless cap.
 
I also have for sale nos genuine "Dufor" V6 PCV Valves and NGK Japan Double Platinum Spark Plugs
 

in rod we trust
I have changed all leading up to the carb from fuel pump 1-6 psi to filter and carb filter as well …  I have just brought a regulator in thinking its soften up the float needle by the pressure but its the same pump as old one,
 

Do you have elect fuel pump?  Books says inlet pressure should be 3.5-5psi.  Maybe fuel pressure is why both carbs you tried had problems.
 
If accuspark has problems try Pertronix 1868 kit.  I installed one over 20 years ago and has never missed a beat. 
 
 

I just had a quick look over the comments about the stalling problem. Bee Vee is correct, its definitely an electrical ignition issue. I would also be strongly advising to change condenser, points, cap and rotor. When setting your timing, set tdc #1 firing, no static advance on the dizzy initially to get it started and running, then set your correct dwell angle, once running smooth, advance timing approx 6-8 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected. Once set, connect vacuum advance hose back up to dizzy again. Hope this helps

Hey Rod
what was the problem in the end, as we havent heard back from you yet ?

Maybe he is still stalled Beeve.
 
You may have to race over and test his condensor for him
 
 

900dukess
Maybe he is still stalled Beeve.
 
You may have to race over and test his condensor for him
 
 

iF ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO CONTACT HIM, maybe they should ring or go over see if he's ok, and not hung himself over the Capri problem !  There must be a reason why he hasnt written here in 3 weeks.