my v6 all the sudden wants to stall after a while at lights or when stoping or at times at idle
 
thought it was the base carby plate after mine was cracked.. spud sent me one ..cheers spud .. but it still does it . fitted a new kit on the carby a 38 dgms  but its got me scratching my head as what it could be changed dizzy cap , fuel pump , plugs  ..  runs fine while driving …  but at times out of nowhere it decides to just stall then keeps doing it starts ok after stalling and at times it will sit there idling no probs for quite a while ..I have the accuspark ignition  .. its just got me stumped trying to get the car ready for all ford day  but its just giving me the ****s... also noticed that when I tighten the dizzy bolt it moves the timing off a bit as well ...

15 minute check  ........ by putting Points and Condenser back in in lieu of accuspark 
 
Strong advocator of ORIGINAL parts.............how many decades did we race 4,6 and V8 cars around the world
on points with 10/10 reliability ?  ............and motor bikes at MUCH higher revs?

BEE VEE
15 minute check  ........ by putting Points and Condenser back in in lieu of accuspark 
 
Strong advocator of ORIGINAL parts.............how many decades did we race 4,6 and V8 cars around the world
on points with 10/10 reliability ?  ............and motor bikes at MUCH higher revs?

been at this thing all day even changed carbies with one I had laying around a 40 dfav  still same crap  took it out for a drive  with the 38 after re adjusting the float within a mile stalled at the end of the street ...  started it up again the drove it for about 29 mins no probs ..turned it off .. took it for another drive and same thing started stalling .. 
 
I'm going to try the points again  but was having a bit of a nightmare with the points they were burning out and had to always re adjust them  
 
car runs fine when ya driving but as soon as ya come to a stop it will either ldle or stall ...  
 
 almost at the stahe of ripping the 6 out and putting v8 in it  ...  anyway back to the drawing board to try again  

IF points are burning out, that's likely a CONDENSER in your description........... a new condenser means NOTHING if NOT tested.........find someone with a MICROFARAD TESTER and look for a reading between pigtail and body of 0.16 uf to 0.35 uf and you're laughing........any reading below or above these readings means it belongs in scrap .
 
Putting a V8 is not gunna change a thing when same thing happens to iIT......  ANY condenser with a pigtail long enuf can be used till you find the right physical dimension type for that dizzy. IF readings as above are ok on "ring-in", feed lead thru to points and fix body to one of clip screws
 
Next POI is Ign Coil, but i think you tried that.........was coil TESTED to spec ?
 
Dont leave accuspark coil in it with points...........common 70's Coil (tested) from Falcon Valiant or Holden (with ext resistor) must be used
 

BEE VEE
IF points are burning out, that's likely a CONDENSER in your description........... a new condenser means NOTHING if NOT tested.........find someone with a MICROFARAD TESTER and look for a reading between pigtail and body of 0.16 uf to 0.35 uf and you're laughing........any reading below or above these readings means it belongs in scrap .
 
Putting a V8 is not gunna change a thing when same thing happens to iIT......  ANY condenser with a pigtail long enuf can be used till you find the right physical dimension type for that dizzy. IF readings as above are ok on "ring-in", feed lead thru to points and fix body to one of clip screws
 
Next POI is Ign Coil, but i think you tried that.........was coil TESTED to spec ?
 
Dont leave accuspark coil in it with points...........common 70's Coil (tested) from Falcon Valiant or Holden (with ext resistor) must be used
 

 cheers   so a external resistor is needed mine didn't have one when it had the points
 
just something I noticed  is the rotor supposed to move at least 15 deg then snap back im sure they should 
 

Leave it without if you cant find your original Resistor Wire; just use a standard non resistor controlled coil as fitted to most cars in the 50's and 60's............your problem is not there..............
Neither is the rotor not snapping back as it should.
Do as I suggested and see if that helps

It could be fuel related, some gunk in the tank could be rolling about and blocking the pipe momentarily. Or there could be a pin hole in the line somewhere sucking air to the carb . Idle mixture to rich..
Hope you get it sorted soon

Rod, have you got those points in yet ?
 
IMHO.............
Any degree of spasmodic blockage will rear its ugly head at maximum load/speed, but Rods problem is non existent UNTIL it idles ....... also pretty sure the Capri has a "gauze" in-tank filter like most if not all post 1969 cars.
Any induction (vacuum) leak anywhere in the system to a certain degree, gives a over-lean mix; not over-rich, and will make engine idle very much higher, plus present other driveability probs thru the rev range. Progressively higher vacuum leak after prgrsvly higher revs, will then cause engine to starve/stall; not in Rods description.

Sounds like the issue is once the car is warm.   This can be heat affecting the coil or leads, or carb is running rich, which when cold is ok but once warm could be too rich for idle and cause stall.
 
Check the resistance in coil, hot and cold, and test resistance in leads.  If they are ok then I would check and clean out the carb you might have got dirt in one of the passages when you kitted it.
 
If your choke is auto check its not getting stuck.
 
If you have accuspark ignition I doubt it has anything to do with it.  Its just electronic points so if there was a problem with it it would show up at all revs and temps, not just hot idle.
 
That said, if its just at idle and drives well in mid range, no misfiring, then my money would be on the idle circuit or choke, and it could be as simple as you didn't adjust the idle screws properly when you kitted it.

Hey Rod!  ..........   what's happening ?