As my van is a d/d, i have been told to take a few kgs of the flywheel.To lesson the stress on the motor [x2x]i always thought you done it to get the motor more responsive.Anyway how much should i take of [x2x]1/2/3 kg or more [x2x]
regards
james

WTF is a D/D?

Daily driver [?]

Stress the motor ??? Huh...like with most aspects of the car, Ford spent $$$$ to find the optimum for day to day road use.

It'll be more responsive but on a stock motor I'm not sure you'lle notice it. It will also be more 'jerky' as you won't have as much flywheel weight to absorb the on/off throttle changes. Again not sure how much you'lle notice it. On my rally cars we took loads off but then ended up with cracks appeararing [:u][:u][:u]

Ended up going with a light steel flywheel wheel drilled to take a 2 litre clutch. No cracks and much easier to keep the clutch together with a hot motor. Can't comment on drivability though as they were only used in the forest and not around town.

From Burtons website
http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/engine-general.html

quote:

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Apart from being a handy place to fit a clutch and starter ring gear, the flywheel’s primary function is to smooth out the transmission of power from the crankshaft and for this you require mass (weight). The problem here is that this weight acts as a resistance to, as well as a store for, the energy produced by the engine. Lightening the flywheel will improve the engine’s response to throttle openings but not the actual power output. Unless the flywheel is abnormally heavy we do not recommend flywheel lightening for road stages of tune. The slight loss of low speed torque and flexibility resulting from the tuning modifications carried out, can be greatly exacerbated by a lightweight flywheel. However, for all serious tuning a lightweight flywheel is essential. Standard cast iron flywheels can be lightened but there is always a risk of them exploding if too much material is removed from critical areas. The rule here is not to be over-ambitious when machining weight from a standard flywheel - it isn’t worth the risk! The safe answer is to buy a steel flywheel which are available for most popular engine / clutch formats. The final point on flywheels is to make sure it is firmly secured to the crankshaft. Always fit new HT bolts and always double check that they have been torqued correctly. If engine speeds in excess of 7500rpm are anticipated then, wherever possible, the flywheel and crankshaft should also be double dowelled for extra security.

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Thanks guys ,i have decided to leave it the std weight.As its a Daily Driver,
regards
james