Cheers Phil. Might go rose jointed and perhaps find some of those lil rubber booties to put on them....just have to decide who to buy them from......so many choices but all seem to be pommie

A 10 dollar rose joint will not come with dust and grime seals, will have softer materials, lower load ratings and wear quicker than a 100 dollar joint which may have inbuilt protection. Either way a dust boot is cheap insurance. You get what you pay for!
As phil pointed out, positive location harsh vibration which leads to increases component fatigue, In my opinion better for an all out circuit car. For a road rally car I think I would prefer the more forgiving bushed version, to give some compliance over rutts, cutting corners and gutters!

JP

good point jp

I have dust boots....

quote:

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Originally posted by Mickas

What are your thoughts DannyM?

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The first question needs to be asked what class do you intend to run in and are they legal for that class as they are out for Imp/Prod and alot of other classes except sports sedans. The other question is why do you need them as there are lots of ways to get camber as I've run as high as 8 degrees of negative without them as it can be done. But that said if the rules for my class allowed me to I'd be running them as it does provide a much more positive location and there would be a definite benefit. But it must be said a lot of the TCA's out there are basically junk as they start with a cheap qulaity TCA and cut the end off and weld a threaded plug in and then screw a cheap and nasty spherical joint in which will then intern put more load on the poor quality ball joint on the outer end.
If you want them to last you will need to be using a decent quality joint preferably a 1/2" chrom-moly and it alone will cost you at least $100 or more before you screw it into you're new modified TCA. Most of the arms you see out there that are around the $200 mark will have both a a cheap TCA and joint so don't expect them to last as they wil start rattling before they ever would have with a bush. If you want somethng that will last you need something that is made from a genuine Ford arm with a decent teflon lined chro-moly joint and it should last without a boot as the teflon liner will keep most of the moisture and grit away from the contact area of the joint. You will see this in the better qulaity arms from Gartrac, WWRS, Historic Rallysport etc.
As I said havea read of the rules because it will either say the they can be modified with spherical joints which means you have to modify a standard TCA, if it says TCA's are "Free" which some classes have get an TCA fabricated wit ha spherical joint at both ends which in the long run will be the most economical

Danny

Check the last post by Proey regarding quality

http://rsmotorsport.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2578

Cheers, JP

Dam you RD [V][}:)]

I would definetly be suggesting the same
Stick to the Genuine Ford Track control arm and TRE (green),also proper motorsport quality Rod ends not the cheap china Jobbies sold by Rally design).
Aurora (made in the USA)do top quality Teflon lined 3 piece rod ends for motorsport use.

Same goes for quick rack steering racks,dont skimp,tried to sell them
in the early days because they seemed good value at around £120ish from RD in the UK,but quickly learned,customers comming back after a days rallying with the unit falling apart.
We have customers in Europe and their motorsport governing body have since banned these rack from use,because of the obvious dangers.
Say no more!!!

Just my opinion and experiences.

Who does a good quick rack for motorsport use then?

Her is the one we use
Brand new casing,fitted with 24mm rack,and 10mm longer drumsticks.
super heavy duty.1 year warrenty.
not cheap but definetly the best out there.
RH and LHD available.

http://www.grp4fabrications.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=435