well i had adjusted them already, do i have to adjust them again with the new cylinders?

I cant believe this topic has got 3 pages of replies ....

First thing - Clamp off the rear brake hose and then test the pedal. If it still feels the same then your problem is NOT in the rear.

Second thing - clamp off both the front hoses as well and test the pedal. If it still feels the same then your problem is not air in the lines. The master cylinder is stuffed!

Finally, before you adjust the rear brakes make sure the handbrake hasnt been adjusted from the cable. The handbrake levers inside the drums should be free against the trailing shoe. If the handbrake has been adjusted you will never get the brake pedal feeling right.
Back off all handbrake adjustment, adjust the shoes and then re-adjust the handbrake only if you need to.

quote:

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Originally posted by Mk1 Lotus

You can isolate the problem by clamping the brake lines one at time till the pedal goes hard. So clamp the single rear line at the diff, it pedal fells better the problem is in the rears, need a bleed or adjustment or both.

If it's still low clamp the front left and feel the pedal again then the right. If it's still soft the problem is in the master cylinder.

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You could have saved yourself a lot of time. This was the 7th post on this thread.

Triad Paul's method (mk1 lotus) and it does work!! works first time and saves a load of stuffing around!!

lol..i did, and the feel seemed no different.

clue after clue, its gotta be the master.

well mk1 lotus, i tried your elimination technique again,

this is with the NEW master;

only have one clamp, so yeah,

rear - no difference

front r/h - firmer pedal

front l/h - firmer pedal...

what can it be pointing to if the spongey feel is coming from the front?

the calipers were supposedly reconditioned, and had smcka's spacer kit to clamp onto a vented (fatter) rotor installed.

??????

thanks guys. ALMOST ROADWORTHY!!

Sterling, it sounds like they just need a good bleed. You cant bleed properly without 2 people or a brake pedal clamp as used when doing a caster swing on a wheel aligner

You need someone on the pedal and someone at the caliper/wheel cylinder.

Sequence goes from the longest pipe run to the shortest. Typically LHR,RHR,LHF,RHF for an escort or cortina.

Pump the pedal,then hold it down,crack the bleed nipple,let it bleed out,tighten nipple,pump the pedal.Repeat the process several times at each bleed nipple until no air comes out. Go round the car 2 or 3 times if necessary. All this is a waste of time if you have a leak, make sure you dont have a leak first

well i did have two people, one time with me at the wheels, and the second time we swapped, and i was in the car working the brake.

ill just keep playing with it till theres no air then.

stephan is going to borrow the "one man" brake bleeder for me 2moro from his work (the air blower type)

these any good?

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and how can i test for a leak? im assuming brake systems can leak without actually seeing anything on the floor. get a mate to press the pedal and see if i can hear a hiss under the car or something?

Sorry to jump in on this link, a really silly question with your bleeding problems. You mentioned you fitted 2 new calipers, have you fitted them up the correct way? Sounds stupid but it is easily done, bleed nipple too the top, otherwise air will get stuck in caliper and you won't get it out. In response to what order to bleed, i've found that it doesn't make that much difference. I'm saying about the calipers as i did this on my rs, took me age's to "sus" the problem!!!

quote:

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Originally posted by Sterling

well i did have two people, one time with me at the wheels, and the second time we swapped, and i was in the car working the brake.

ill just keep playing with it till theres no air then.

stephan is going to borrow the "one man" brake bleeder for me 2moro from his work (the air blower type)

these any good?

---------

and how can i test for a leak? im assuming brake systems can leak without actually seeing anything on the floor. get a mate to press the pedal and see if i can hear a hiss under the car or something?

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Im not a fan of the vaccum brake bleeder, they really arent any good unless your flushing an already properly bled system. The only type of air operated bleeder that is any good is a pressure bleed system that fits onto the reservoir and forces air through...I have not seen one of these available for years,usually you make your own.

To check for leaks you need to visually inspect every inch of hose,line etc including wheel cylinders, calipers and master cylinders. The area that is leaking will be damp with brake fluid.

It wouldn't be the first time a caliper was put on upside down...are the bleed nipples at the top?

Are you sure the rear shoes are correctly adjusted?

Cheers,

Phil.