We have managed to seize the 1.3L engine in my boy's auto 1975 MK1 Escort. We would like to upgrade the engine to a 1.6L but not sure whether it bolts straight in. If it does we need an engine and possibly a gearbox in strong running order. Can anybody help? We live in Sydney but happy to go to Canberra or anywhere around Sydney to pick up a quality replacement. Give me a call on 0405190487 if you can help. Reasonable money for a reasonable engine/gearbox/shifter. Thanks, Ken

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Originally posted by YellowFlash

We have managed to seize the 1.3L engine in my boy's auto 1975 MK1 Escort. We would like to upgrade the engine to a 1.6L but not sure whether it bolts straight in. If it does we need an engine and possibly a gearbox in strong running order. Can anybody help? We live in Sydney but happy to go to Canberra or anywhere around Sydney to pick up a quality replacement. Give me a call on 0405190487 if you can help. Reasonable money for a reasonable engine/gearbox/shifter. Thanks, Ken

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Hi Ken,

Yep, its a straight bolt in job. The only possible drama is the exhaust as the block on the 1600 is slightly taller than the 1300. It'll only be a problem if the exhaust is almost touching the bodywork right now.

I've just made the same change to my project mk1 and even put 1300 extractors onto the 1600 without clearance issues.

I believe its the same auto on the 1300 and 1600.

Cheers,

Mark

Thanks Mark for that. I am still needing a 1.6L Engine (with gearbox if possible) for anybody out there that may have one lying around.

I'm taking one out of my Capri BUT I'm on the north coast PM me if your interested it is a 1600 with a 4 speed

Hey great offer but I am pretty sure that a manual configured engine will not work with an auto gearbox. Can anybody assist with this question?

you'll need..
1/2" breaker bar
14mm socket
locktite
grease
hammer
large screwdriver


Take the 1600 manual motor and undo the flywheel bolts with the breaker bar & 14mm socket. You'll need to slot the large screwdriver through you front pulley so it jams againt the block. This stops your flywheel from moving

Then you'll need to get the spigot bearing out of the crank end. Pack the hole FULL of grease (thicker the better) and make sure there's no air pockets. Get a socket that just fits inside the hole, put it on a short extension bar and hit it firmly with a hammer. The pressure on the grease will force out the bearing. It might take a few hits.

Then remove your washer, driveplate and spacer off the 1300 and transfer them onto the 1600 crank end in the same order. Use some locktite on the driveplate bolts and do em up tight with the breaker bar/14mm socket. Job done

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Originally posted by wombat2509

I'm taking one out of my Capri BUT I'm on the north coast PM me if your interested it is a 1600 with a 4 speed

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Just to confuse the issue my block is a 691 1600 block not the later 711

Thanks Ratta Tat Tat. By what you are saying you seem to infer that a manual 1600 engine can be used as an auto? I thought there was a configuration issue inside the engine i.e. difference crank, etc. If this is not the case this is excellent news. I am not questioning what you say Ratta Tat Tat but can you confirm (or anybody else for that matter), for dumb old me, that this is the case. Thanks again. Ken

hi Ken. I love being the bearer of good news. The cranks are exactly the same on the manual & auto. It's just a matter of following those steps above. Don't forget the last spacer (in between the drive plate & crank). It looks as though it's part of the crank but it pryes off quite easily. I overlooked it when I did mine and never transferred it to the 1600. It took me a couple of weeks to figure out what I had done wrong.