I have to agree with GTV6 ............  right or wrong, why take the chance, when paintstripper is zero impact on 
panelwork ?  These are not thick panels like on a Humber !

I always use the paint stripper.
However in my current resto I used the paint stripper to remove approx 98% of the paint on the entire bodyshell  then had the shell sand blasted at very low pressure. The shell was removed from the blast chamber and within minutes went into a large shed then etched and undercoated in two pack. Saved heaps of time. It is possible to sandblast without damage but at low pressure.

I know if it's done badly or quickly Sand Blasting can ruin a car. I only ever blast one side of a panel normally the underside with nooks and crannies. I use an eBay sand blaster so it not a five minute job and would not have the chance of heat build or strength to warp a panel. It's easier and better to do bonnet and roof with a sander or disk. The sand blaster can really sort out inside the A pillar that nothing else can get into and I use a long pole I made so I'm not close to the action breathing stuff in (always use proper mask though).
This is a different White Capri not the red interior one. This is same year 3 months earlier and has Black interior came from country NSW.

I've seen an Anglia come out of a blasters and it was destroyed, the guy had no idea how to drive the blaster on thin panels and they all buckled. I always talk to the owner and/or the blaster doing the job before I take the car there, some take pics to show they can do it right.
Those little eBay pressure tank blasters are fine for undercarriage areas as the pressure and volume of grit isn't enough to buckle a panel.... Unless you stand there in one spot for a while .
Editt.. Another option is getting the car dipped to remove paint and rust etc but at a price$

Yes it's perfect for inside door areas under the bonnet and most of the small panels. The clean up and mess from paint stripper sucks IMO.

I did another metal shaping course a few months ago and he had a HQ in there and asked us all to check out the bonnet which was in primer.  Looked fine to all of us, nice and straight.  Then he walked over lightly pushed on it to show us it oil canning on the outer flat sections..... from blasting.  It had lost its tension and had been brought to him by the owner to try and get it fixed.  Big job and a lot of skill needed to shrink it back and keep it flat.
 
No matter what gear is being used, to remove paint you either have to hit it hard or for a long time so for me if you are hitting it hard enough or long enough to remove the paint then it's too much risk.

You haven't sand blasted yourself then. As I said large flat pans I would sand. Underneath a V6 bonnet I'd do no issue. Sanding creates more heat than blasting. Sand blasting creates the perfect key for fresh paint as well. Older cars have thick steel. I don't know who blasted the HQ but obviously was out to make money and went to quick. My blaster throws more cool air than sand so it's cooling as it goes but still quicker than any other method.

I'm not interested in arguing with you wiggy, I just thought I would share what I have learnt from professional coach builders.
 
 

Not arguing bud you've helped me lots. It's just a low and slow approach I take. Well and truly understand the wasted cars from sandblasting nightmares. I know of a Perana ruined because of it and so many others. It's large flat panels that don't take well to hard and fast blasting. Though I think the bonnet bulge on a V6 would stop the issue that the HQ experienced.

This is Maddie's car. As you can see sand blasted and rust free. We do the large panels by hand. Home job no paint on these pics just cleaned metal. Roof and outside panels done by disks. And the plate. It has no rust really at 50 yr old