As Wozzah said earlier, there is NO RELATION what so ever between the PSI or BAR reading on a compression test and compression ratio.
 
All you are being told by that guage reading is that there is nothing wrong with your engine from a compression perspective!  Cam timing could be an issue but i would be lining up TDC and checking the relative cam position before i started moving teeth. Otherwise it is nothing but guesswork. 

yeah took it for a spin today, so much low end torque, I put 98 in it and it is ridiculously quick. It seems strange because it says in the manual to check compression by means of a compression test. I must have a bit more of a read! Brakes booster died though. More money. NFI if they can be repaired or replaced

I will try retarding the camshaft, I brought it forward a tooth as it wasn't idling at all. 

mattsmithadelaide

yeah took it for a spin today, so much low end torque, I put 98 in it and it is ridiculously quick. It seems strange because it says in the manual to check compression by means of a compression test. I must have a bit more of a read! Brakes booster died though. More money. NFI if they can be repaired or replaced

 
Nothing wrong with doing a compression test, this will tell you if the cylinders are sealing indicating the condition of the rings, valves & valve seats and compression ring on the head gasket. The point Wozzah and i were making is that compression pressure (e.g. 180psi or 13 bar etc) and compression ratio (e.g. 10:1 etc) are completely unrelated. You cannot determine compression ratio with a compression tester guage.
 
 

okay, sorry about that. Just assumed you took put your reading over environmental pressure to get a ratio. 

Only way to accurately measure compression ratio of an engine is to cc the combustion chambers.
 
A dry compression test will tell you if your rings / pistons, head gasket and head are OK and a general idea if your engine has high, low or OK compression only.
A wet compression test (where you squirt a little oil in the cyl) will tell you if it is the rings that were bad (if the test is significantly higher that the dry comp test)
 
If you have a bigger cam than normal then be careful of advancing it one tooth as it may then "catch" the piston if it was correct.  If is is a standard cam then it does not matter as the valves do not meet the pistons even if a belt breaks at higher revs as there is some space between the valves and pistons.
 
If it is all low end torque an gutless up top with good compression, a "normal" (not huge) cam, properly gapped plugs, dwell set up correctly, valve clearances set to tolerance, properly set ignition timing and no vacum leaks - THEN try advancing the cam timing as all the rest need to be right FIRST...
 
It is not very common, but one of my engines misfired (once) when starting and retarded the cam by a tooth once in the last 20 years and in over 250,000km of pinto driving - so not a common occurence.  Most causes are more normal run of the mill.  If it is a fresh engine, then definately check EVERY thing else first....

spigot

13 bar is actually 191psi, assuming the gauge is reading correct. At that pressure premium fuel is mandatory.

Generally speaking advancing the cam beefs up bottom end torque and retarding does the opposite.

Actually, if you want to get that technical, 13 bar is 188.54905940909998psi....
 
I did miscalculate earlier, was a quick add up!
 
Cheers
Woz