first batch of engine bits arrived today

kent 244 cam kit


titan roller rockers


duplex chain sprocket and cahin kit


hiflow oil pump, front pully and thrust plate


8 stainless steel valves


worl cup xmember




hopefully the second order will be here in the next few weeks


starting to build up some parts lol

You have some nice parts in the first order there. How far are you going to strip back the shell?

well after i pulled all the carpet up and got most of the dash out i was pleasantly surprised to see no rust. even after taking the heater box out and having a good suss i cant find any surface rust or any evidence of repairs plus the paint underneath still look mint :) :)

the plan is to have it mostly gutted, maby a cage further down the track.

Nice. No rust is always a good thing. Keep the pics coming.

ok so one of the guys from work is friends with a guy who runs an engine shop. i am going to get him to do the work on my block ( machining and what not) i have seen the quality of work he does and its good.

anyway he has suggested using a L18 or L20 nissan crank as they are forged from factory. i will need to talk to him more about it and do some research but from what ive read there are a few people who have done it.

from what i understand it will increase the stroke of the piston basically giving more capacity.

i haven't made my mind up at all yet but it is a very interesting idea considering a good crrank for the kent is about 3k and you could probably do this one for under 2.


hmmm interesting hey

have you seen this?

http://www.cortina-mk1.com/pdf/dastun_crank1.pdf

once i finish my aprentiship gonna have a good at it (fitter and turner) work at thales who make the bush masters (army off road 4x4's) so have any mechine you could imagine

yeah ive come seen that artical.

cheers anyway.


like i said not sure if ill do it yet but im quite interested

Datsun cranks whilst forged steel are still 34 years old, the centre line of the pin isn't centred to bore, you have no fillet radii left on the crank pins once turned down and they still don't clear the inside of the block and that just the L18 the L20 has main journals 5mm bigger standard than the L18 that is too big already.Then you need a flywheel which is no problem just more money.

For what your doing there are 3 other options, 1. Scat cast steel FF1600 crank, looks the same as a standard 711M or 2. the cranks I had made, 4340 forged steel fully counterweighted for $2200 and if you want to go big I have 84mm stroke as well, we would need to get you new pistons though and the cam would have to be notched.



or 3. just have the standard crank crack tested, serviced and balanced.

interesting. thats a bloody sexy looking crank. $2200 isint much more than what i was thinking a conversion would cost me. but then there is the rods ontop of that too.
do you mean you wouldn't use that cam paul?


anyway that looks much more appealing than a datto crank.

will have to do some thinking. haha

Rods are $600.

You can use your cam, if you went long stroke, 84mm, you would need to modify your cam for clearence.