Well we got to it this weekend installing the type 9 into my 2 door mk2 2.0... First of all some measurements;
Crossmember holes are moved back 33mm and lowered 46mm, interested to hear others had the same...
A 3mm plate steel cut out to the same shape as the crossmember and identical holes drilled. 3mm strip 43mm wide bent at 2 points and welded in. Trimmed at 45 degrees on one edge for neatness...
Holes drilled for the crossmember bolts to rubber mount.

Feels pretty rock solid, the engine is still out of the car so no news on vibration or noise yet... We left the existing mounts in the tunnel area and they dont seem to foul as it is. I'll report back soon on this one.
 
Next an oval section is cut using a combination of 4" angle grinder for the long straight sections and a dremel for the round with a large reinforced cutting disk for the round sections. A CD makes a great template for your circular section and mark with a pen or pencil. A fair amount of the tunnel reinforcement beneath the tunnel skin had to be removed with the angle grinder.
Oval section is cut out and simply turned round and re-welded in.

 
By using a straight quickshifter I have been able to use the existing console, although the rear mounts for it have been removed, and I will find a way to secure it later. I need to find a new gearstick boot to fit in at the existing is too small and wont allow shift into downward gears.
 

 
We also found it is not easy at all to place the gearbox onto the engine from underneath the car, so the engine is out, and we will place the engine onto the gearbox... Good chance to have a check over on the engine and clean the bay down anyways...
 
Ill let you know how it goes once we get the whole setup running this weekend.
 
Cheers,
 
Rob

Great stuff.
 
Matt

Matt;
ive ordered my boggs bros manifold for the r1 carbs too, i might get in touch with you soon bout that one..

I did my rear mount recently and mine is a fair bit closer to the tunnel than in that pic, i wanted the tailshaft as straight as possible and the engine mounted fairly level as well and only had a 10mm spacer btw the floor and the mount, so the gear stick hole is almost up thru the tunnel floor, the car drives great.
I must say the rear mount isnt quite as simple as some would make out.

On mine and several others i have seen we removed the cross member mounts off the tunnel and moved them back about 60mm.  We then use 25mm alloy spacers to get the angle right and of course longer bolts.
 
In my other car where the conversion was done before i got it the mounts have been removed and moved back but then welded in further down to eliminate the need for spacers. Looks relatively factory and maintains the original engine angle.

No stress mate.
 
Matt

Gdub

In my other car where the conversion was done before i got it the mounts have been removed and moved back but then welded in further down to eliminate the need for spacers. Looks relatively factory and maintains the original engine angle.

And it was bit of a prick with the spot weld remover trying to get one of the mounts off the RS as some B@stard at Ford when he spot welded one of the mounts in 1980 on went for a large number of spot welds (one one side only as the other had the standard couple...)  Great fun lying under the hot bits of metal falling down on your face... But it was done to make it look factory.
 
 I did not think I could keep the old mounts in the tunnel with the T9 as the box was fouling on them (or at least was hanging too low - but it was few years ago) - thats another reason I drilled out the spot welds and moved the mounts back and down...
 
The other (butchers) option is to cut of the mounts and just use flat plates bolted up through the floor - looks like it was done at home though.

After the job was done I found a grinding noise through the body...
Just spent about 2 hours with a dremel (i dont have a die grinder) grinding points where the gearbox bolts seemed to be touching the exisiting tunnel crossmember brackets... Crossmember out 3 times, same result... Looked clear, but I couldnt rev the engine to see if it was contacting under revs...
Got under the bonnet and noticed the alternator contacting on the brake booster was my problem all along °_°
All is good now, next thing to sort out is the clutch point has moved way far out since installing a new clutch. Wound out to maximum on the adjuster, I may need a spacer of some type I think...
 
Cheers,
 
Rob

I think there are different length clutch cables that may help you out.  I can't remember which one is longer but from memory the 1600 one is.
 
Cheers,
 
Matt

Has anyone got an idea on how to correct the speedo? I used to read 10kmph over now its 20kmph over, doesnt really bother me, just wouldnt mind if i could correct it...
 
Cheers,
Rob