Hey guys. Just read karlyoungs thread and Ive got a similar query.
 
Im fitting 2lt struts to my mk2 escort. Ive got a pair of Gaz shocks in for the job. I've also got a set of lowered king springs (came 2nd hand with the struts, so cant say how much shorter they are).
 
Im going to have a crack at replacing the struts myself, but theres a few points im not too sure on..
 
* Shouldn't I compress the springs with restrainers when I rebuild the strut assembly? This would make sure that my springs don't shift around in the seats and remain under compression at all times! Or is this bad practice? Do I just have to live with loose springs that hold their place when the car is on the road and are secured by strong wire or hose clamps?
 
* Fitting lower springs will drop the ride height. Because the TCAs are non adjustable, won't this throw my camber settings out? I've just lashed out on tyres and dont want premature wear to crop up.. Do I now have to look at adjustable TCAs (w/normal bushes from burton) or adjustable strut tops? ($$$ for k-macs?)
 
Cheers
 
Nick

Hey  Mate,
 
The springs will remain under compression at all times even with the wheels off the ground.
 
Kings Springs only lower the car by around an inch from memory so may marginally change the camber angles but they certainly won't cause and negative issues.
 
With all suspension changes you'll need to get a proper front end alignment once finished.
 
Any questions give me shout.
 
Matt

Hi Nick,
 
After having them on and off a few times i think i got it right?
 
Build up off car, compress springs and locate them in the seats correctly.
Do up the piston nut,
Fit to car and tighten the 3 mount bolts. 
I then jacked up the lower link to simulate some weight on the car and loosened the top piston nut.
Then turn the springs from the top until the wheel looks like its driving straight, then tighten the top piston nut again. 
 
First couple of times i was turning the wheels with weight off and the springs were slipping,  I had located the springs correctly but the marks i made for the top piston in relation to the body work had changed (due to where the springs start and finish) so i had to reset them by loosening the top piston nut. Hope this makes sense? I've had a chat with a few people and been told that the top rubber mount is designed to aid in self centring so if its not lined up right when tightened it pulls one way.