Has anyone here actually played around with a 32/36 dgv?

My initial impression is that the idle jet is a touch on the small side but both main jets are noticeably on the big side. I stuck the sniffer up the tail pipe and I am getting AFR's in the 11-13 range????

Engine is only slightly warmed over. I have a feeling I am going down from the std 127/132 combo to something like 120/127.

So I take it no here knows how to tune a 32/36dgv carby!!!

Or own a wideband to even give it a go.

If that is the case thats pretty soft considering a decent wideband only costs about $450 and you would almost pay that to get any carby and ignition properly tuned once.

I looked up a Weber book years ago and got the jet sizws for all Ford 2Lt Pinto powered cars with the 32/36 Weber. From memory they varied between about 125 up to 140. Manual cars "tended" to have bigger jets on the secondary than on the primary, autos tended to either be about the smae size or with a primary slightly bigger than the secondary, and the bigger cars also tended to be overall bigger than the lighter bodyshell cars.. . I think the smallest Ford was something like a 123/127 and the bigest was a 140/140 (one model Cortina 2Lt auto if memory serves...)

Using that logic, years ago I put 140/140 into my 32/36 and still got 35mpg plus it felt a little more responsive too... Only mods were extractors / sports exhaust and a Ramflo filter...

That said my Renault 16 engine in the Motorkhana special runs 145's for a smaller 1588cc capacity in both its barrels of its 32/32DIR Weberto make only about 85Hp and it is essentailly factory as those engines evidently loved the extra fuel....

These days no-one too much plays with the 32/32DGAV as if we are wanting more power then we go for twin 45's or if we want a better stock looking everyday with some economy, we go for a 38/38DGMS.. I have done them all and even used a Gas Research carby and twin 40's too - but for power go the twin 45's, stock looking and economical a 38/38DGMS and for money saving go Gas Research and LPG.... Forget the 32/36DGAV, 40/40DFAV and twin 40's as they are not worth mucking around with... unless you want stock original of course !

It ended up;

125/120 main
60/55 idle
140/175 air correctors
3.5/4.5 auxillary venturi
60 pump shooter

The biggest problem was the auxillary venturis were wrong way around, it was sphiponing fuel at high revs and pulling the AFR's less than 10:1.

Brazed and redrilled the jets myself, cost nothing only 2 hours of tuning.

I can efi the car cheaper than twin 45 dcoe's, and I will have full ignition control to boot. Next step is efi and turbo.

LPG is a total waste of time, vapour injection is only slightly better.

You say LPG is a waste of time, but for $$$, you cannot get close with petrol... With the Gas Research system I was getting around 450km in town for about $30-35 of gas and about 600km in the country for similar... Compare those to a stock 32/36 tuned perectly and you will get about 350-400km for about $60 round town and about 450 in the country... More than TWICE as expensive... But you do not gain any power with LPG and I lost a little torque with it as the airflow speed is lower with the bigger Gas Research carby...

Horses for courses though as my "road / race" car on twin 45's gets about 200km for about 45L of premium or about $75[:(!] Both Mk2 Escorts but nothing alike in manors or handling...

Spigot,

Can I ask how the car idles and runs, do you have any flat spots, does it rev nicely up the high range. Reason is I agree with you that the Primary and secondary main jets are large. I have read and heard of people putting 145's on each. My opinion is too big unless u have a big motor. I had 135 and 132 and the unburnt fuel smell was horrid. I went down to 132 127 and its better but still walk out smelling like a refinery. I wanted to experiment going smaller but haven't done so yet.

Rod

It idles very smooth all the way down to 600rpm. The car runs a near stock cam advanced ~8 deg and the head has been decked .060" with some minor head work. It cranks at 175psi. Initial timing is 15deg with 35deg all in by 3000rpm with full vac advance.

As the carby was leaned out it started picking up a hesitation on mild acceleration which neccesatiated drill out the pump shooter. Car now cruises at 14-14.5 and WOT at 12-13 over entire rev range. Goes well as can be expected for a near stock motor.

This results would not be possible without a wideband!

what brand of wide band and how much and were did u get it from i need one to tune my 2litre pinto motor with is running twin 45mm webber thanks

I have an innovate brand.  There are several brands out there now.  The innovate use to be on the cheaper end of the pricing scale, especially if you buy it from the USA. 
 
My mate reckons they're ****, apparently couldn't get 10 of them to work properly on an engine dyno.  Binned them and replaced with Motec PLM's at a cost of $12,000!
 
I haven't had problems with mine and the plugs tell me that its right.  There is also an Aussie DIY wide band that is apparently pretty good that you can buy complete or in bits if you're cheap.  $400 should be the most to get one which uses the cheaper bosch widebands with  multiple inputs.
 
You need rpm input minimum if you are tuning by yourself. 
 
 

I still have the 32/36 on my RS. Only by choice as I have a couple of extras, but not cofident in using them. The std carby is good and easy to tune. Ive tried all manner of jets and now it doesnt smell of a petrol station. Sure Ive had a mate tune it properly and it is a ripper to drive!
It still has the std dizzy too...just extractors, custom system and a mild tune.