some piccies


[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/201063163743_2nd go bare metal.JPG [/img]

Above : Where you can see the rust is how the entire bay was

30 hrs of work ( after work ) makes for no fun at all

would not wish on my worst enemy [B)]

This is a work in progress shot , it finished up quite shiny


[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/201063163520_epinamel finish resize.JPG [/img]

This is the epinamel , i sh|t myself when i popped open part a and it was like a gooey tar consistency ( thinking how am i going to punch this thru 1.8 gun )

I was not told and still don't know for sure if a putty gun is advisable , nothing on tech sheet except lots of pressure which i gave it

The flow was terrible , i was using a new gun , but a cheapie , anyway it went on without any fizz/ chemical reaction to all of my prep work so im grateful of that

[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/201063164634_2nd go engine bay 2.JPG[/img]

I NEVER want to see bare metal again
[:x)]

Question/s ,

>>>When i get to the plenum chamber what have you guys done to cleanup the un accessable area under the 'grille' area , under the wiper attchments ??

I will be smoothing out a little ( engine bay ) but im not going overboard ( at least thats the plan )


>>>Should i drip check where i have removed it( ie around bonnet hinges, drip rail below bubble etc ?) is it functional for water lye or just for appearance ?

Cheers Jonny

Looks good Jonny. That grill section I haven't touched and I dont really know what to do either.Im thinking a sand blast to get most of it clean then blow over it.Its not done very well from the factory if you see and original car the paint is just lightly blown in that general direction. Are you going to get rid of some of those screw holes?
Youre right about never seeing bare metal again.

What a familar sight that is as I have my wifes Capri at the same stage almost, just need to do the final sand & the engine bay & door shuts will be in colour by Saturday evening.
I will try to put some pics up by the end of the weekend.

Nice work! The data sheet you posted lists nozzle size as 1.5-2mm at 50-60 psi.

Dont know about sand blasting, how will you get the sand out? I would worry about it settling in the gaps and retaining water later.

I will ask the guys at night school if they have any ideas.

Some good news ...

thought id see how this epinamel would react to 180 dry cut

Sands like a dream , its enjoyable compared to sanding metal

Anyway , broke thru to metal here and there and it was clean as i left it ...

Left part a in sun for couple of hours ( duh why the hell didn't i do that first time ) and she flowed out of the gun nicely

Im actually looking forward prepping this bay now , its nice when things work out

Keeping the filler to a minimum as i don't mind the factory spot weld look, will be wiping the metal overlaps though

What have you guys done ? paintable sikaflex type wipe?

post some pics when theres something worth showing

( Hbgt - im leaving the screw holes mate - really like your thread

looking forward to those pics blown66 - gtv6 thanks for all the metal advice )

cheers jonny

A couple of before paint pics.

Looks nice and straight. Did you tape over the chassis number so you can build clear over it later?
Ive heard horror stories of road transport dept come rego time scraping paint off with a screwdriver so they can read the numbers.[8~2]

quote:

---

Originally posted by hotboostgt

Looks nice and straight. Did you tape over the chassis number so you can build clear over it later?
Ive heard horror stories of road transport dept come rego time scraping paint off with a screwdriver so they can read the numbers.[8~2]

---

It WILL happen, trust me!!!

Shaun

Hotboostgt funny you should mention that because we were working on it today & I asked the question where is the chassis ID number stamped because only 2 weeks ago my mate had to scrap back the shock tower on his XYGT because it was not clearly visable, so no we have not taped it but will sort it before we go to much further. I am assusming it is on the top of the passengers side tower ??.

The position of the chassis/body number will depend on what the build year was. From your pics it looks like a '71 or '72, so the chassis number (a CK number) will be stamped in the engine bay on top of the drivers side shock tower. It will be curved around the opening for the strut top between two of the three bolt holes - between the hole closest to the drivers guard and the hole closest to the front of the car.

For a 1970 it will be stamped on the highest point of the slam panel, behind the bonnet lock mechanism. There will also be a number stamped on top of the drivers shock tower (between the two inner bolt holes and parallel to the inner guard), and this will be a J number which should also be on the compliance plate.


Cheers

Jamie