Hey Fellas,

I created this topic to get some input on my Mk1 " on the road " project

SO Far i have worked my way from the rear /diff/ underbody to the engine bay

Here is what i started with

Basically alot of surface rust from sitting in a carport for a while

It got wired off and treated before some paint to seal it back up

[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/200982310236_rear end resixe.jpg [/img]

And here is how it has progressed
[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/2009823102347_IMGP4156-12.jpg [/img]

I added some rustproof/tar to all the seams and its basically a tidy up

I also picked up some orange enamel to maybe repaint a few parts so its not all black

[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/2009823102942_IMGP4184222.jpg[/img]

Now for the engine bay

It has had a dodgy repaint at some stage

The car will be silver fox , do i do the bay in black gloss , or silver fox or a combo of both ( chassis rail black - bay silver? )

what will be the easiest way to tidy it up

I guess i will wire wheel it and rust proof, etch primer then smooth out a little then colour

What have you blokes done with the top of the guard where the rubbers sit ? all those spot welds look crap

I want it smoothed up , i can tack in some metal strips? or will this effect the bonnet closing / sitting right?

[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/2009823103945_IMGP4135333.jpg[/img]

thanks for reading

jonny

Great work so far Jonny.
The silver fox is a very classy color and fresh black really sharpens it up.
As to the guard channels and the engine bay the original factory look is the safest bet. On my rebuild I converted the guards to bolt on and did away with the spot welds but this now is not "original" like yours. Im thinking, silver fox engine bay, black engine with sterling silver extracters and orange plug leads. Maybe an orange gt stripe (original of course) down the side. Throw the orange paint over the back fence. All just opinions of course.

Hey thanks CP , Have checked your build AWWWWESOME

Ha , yer the orange i picked at supercheap for $10 , thats how popular it is [:x)] ( i was thinking rear shocks )

There was 4L of canary yellow but i just couldn't do it [88]

Thats 2 votes for the orange stripe now, i'll take keeping the spot weld look into serious consideration after your comment,

Ive had a good investigation where the rear of the guards meet the pillar and it looks like i have got away with leaving them on ( phew )

If anyone out there is thinking of doing their underbody BUILD A ROTISSERIE! ( it was seriously crappy being under their for days )

yer i would have liked to keep her the original dark/ claret red , but i just love some nice silver

heres a pic of a rushed acrylic job that im redoing , possibly 2k ,
the wheels i have seem like wrong offset ( i bought them online ) so i have to do something especially at the front ! ( ive seen adjustable ball joint arms on a rally site - have to talk to someone that knows how to squeeze the front end a little ) maybe someone here has done it ?

[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/200982314931_IMGP379033344.jpg [/img]

This Guys Paint was absolutely stunning , ive kept some pics of silver cars with show finish to keep my mind on the job

[img]uploaded/1970capriwithvinyl/200982314176_IMGP3771gttttt.jpg[/img]

cheers jonny

The bay has got to be silver...with black rails if black has to feature

Good start mate. what is the under body tar that your using? it looks good. Is that a reverse leaf spring held to the rear leafs with u bolts? does it lower the car? my car is all black underneath and it looks very plain but its clean and tidy and not a show car. My engine bay is black too and doesnt look bad cos the engine has some chrome bits and I hid all the wiring. its easier to keep clean when semi gloss black(gloss black is hard to keep clean and shows every dint). I ran a thin layer of bog over the spot welds on the guards just to even it out a little. If your car is original i wouldn't do it just for originality sake, but mines not. good stuff. keep up the good work

Nice car Jonny,

My favorite colour on a Capri is silver. I'd paint the ebay silver with black rails too, stands out more imo.

Those mags look great too! I know the twin of this Capri over here in Perth with a 5ltr V8 in it.

Keep up the good work mate

Gee im glad i posted now ( was leaning towards black )

So silver bay , possibly black rails

Hoogs - The gear im using is just brushed on where the floorpan meets the chassis and some of the rear floorpan as well

Here is the exact stuff http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=11&item_number=370&page_num=1

your can use a gun but i don't mind the brush as it looks a little factory - like you say not for show really

The leafs are not modified , i chucked them back up to move the car around , i intend on replacing some of those dodgy looking nuts bolts ( one missing ) maybe stainless depending on budget - its not a priority now

I seen a thread somewhere about lowering blocks and resprings , let me know what you find

How bout a pic of that tidy engine bay ?, Hidden wiring sounds good

Im not sure about battery in the boot ? with the fuel tank so close

so have not looked into that

Thanks V8GF , Thats the only thing , its not exactly an original idea , but this is my first capri , ive had her for a while now waiting for the right timing to get her up to scratch, and it just has to be silver fox - to me its timeless and class and suits the era of course

thanks for reading and the encouragement fellas

jonny

Hey Jonny I just noticed your comment about adjustable TCAs. Unless these are used in conjunction with adjustable strut tops you wont be able to pull the wheel in to the body because of changing the camber of the wheel. Idealy the wheel should be a little further out at the bottom than the top. (One to one and a half degree negative for road use). Adjustable strut tops used on ther own might pull the top of the wheel in enough and at the same time give you the negative camber that is desired. Also before you do any repaint get the top of the guards rolled.
So what Im saying is The TCAs wont achieve what you want but the adjustable strut tops might.

Thanks heaps CP !

On further reading after my post i thought i may have to do both , but the adjustable tops sound good - i will take some pics when i have the front end back in to show the issue



I REALLY want those wheels to sit nice , but i will be putting it over the pits with a set of kidneys which fit perfect in the meantime

Plus if i want some horses in their later i may be wasting money with the tcs? ie bigger brakes ? have not researched that yet but so many options and im sure the little kent will have me bored as batpoo poo with the 3speed behind it ( i have not driven it past 60k/h due to the auto slipping )

Will definitely take your advice in the guard rolling

Hmmm can i attempt this myself - what's involved there.....( looks like ill be on the net awhile tonight )

cheers

jonny

update ,

Well the underbody hardened up nicely and should last a real longtime ( thats the positve )

The neg - is ... I took the engine bay back to metal , uncovered a large amount of filler ( not much rust ) and welded up a few pinholes around where the moisture sits near towers

So far it WAS going to plan, beautiful bare metal ready ( mostly )

I'll just use this rust converter here ( top of firewall) and blah blah

Painted etch primer seen a chemical reaction from leftover acid ( converter ) got the sh{ts with that and left it so long the etch primer alone so long it breathed in a big huff of moisture [:-(]

So, im back to halfway bare metal ( again )

This time im gonna get rid of that converter properly ( ANY TIPS/Hints??)

And i have a product called Wattyl pr250 epinamel
http://www.wattyl.net.au/marine/documents/TDS/Epinamel%20PR250%20v2.pdf

It reads like the goods , and im confident of sealing up the girl properly this time

will get some piccies up soon