Now we're starting to get into darker weather at this time of the year, I really want to do something about the low power headlights in my van.

I really prefer the look of square headlights versus round ones, but are round ones better at projecting the light? At the moment I've got some Philips +50s H4 globes, and they're not bright enough to safely illuminate a street without streetlights. Also, changing from low to high beam has very little difference in beam projection, which makes me think the shape of the lenses is probably to blame - obviously brightness isn't going to perceptibly change, being 55w/60w.

I've checked the alignment and it's fine, the headlights are as clean as can be, voltage is great, etc. Perhaps some brand new headlights might be better, or carefully disassemble the existing housings and re-metallise the reflectors?

Failing that - has anyone got some nice looking driving lights on their Mk1? Suitably pointed down a set of driving lights would help things a lot!

I'm open to any suggestions!

Cheers,
Adam

Like you, I much prefer the square headlight, every man and his dog has a round headlight MK1s in the UK, however only 1300 GT and Twin Cams had square ones. (I know its just the opposite here in sunny Oz, but still).
The down side is square lights are not good at projecting the light. Fitting higher wattage (with relays) can help only slightly. Fit 2up2down spotties, large on top (super oscar/Hella 2000) small on bottom (oscar/1000).
pencil beam for the top and spread on the bottom, set the bottom left pointing towards the kerb on the drivers side and the bottom right towards kerb on passengers side. This does 2 things, 1st it lights up the road round the corner as you approach enabling you to see the exit path beyond, 2ndly where the bottom beams cross infront of the car the area is light up nicely,. The pencil beams should be set with one highish and the other lowish bot both stright ahead, again this has 3 benefits, 1stly lights up good distance in front and 2ndly lights up an uphill gradent (with the high set light) and 3rdly  lights down hill gradent when you are on a crest (with low set light). 50 or 100 watt globes are, I believe, better as the 150s give off lots of heat and are more brittle there fore dont last as long.
Needless to say relays are a must and all lights must go off when main beam is switched off.
They will look awesome on your van with 1/4 bumpers.

I bought new headlamps with clear lenses and multi-surface reflectors and new bulbs, and all will be switched by relays to keep losses to a minimum - reportedly a big improvement on stock.  Have a read of this:
 
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
 
 

Nice find Flighter, a well written piece and simple explainations and drawings. should be a sticky for future reference, I think.

Cheers guys - I had been considering a set of 'rally' lights, and thinking that they would go with the look I am trying to achieve with my van.  The only scary thing is the price of them - I had a quick look around and they seem to be at least $200 a pair.
 
I think I'll go with all suggestions to be honest - get some new headlights, even brighter globes, then start looking for some good priced auxiliary lamps.  I'm more than okay with wiring the new lights via relays (working for an automotive lighting company helps!), just couldn't figure out what was letting the light output down - whether putting in some new reflectors would be throwing money away or not. I'm going to rewire the entire thing anyway so this will make a good starting point.
 
Flighter - where did you get the new headlights from?  Good price/quality?
 
Thanks again! :)

If your looking for cheap spotties super-cheap has 7" (i think) chrome bodied ones, i got two sets for 100 bucks on special a couple of years ago and they are bloody good lights

If you can safely pull the lens off the reflected you can kind of cover the corroded area with alfoil glued on... This will help but not a fix. Once that's tackled go buy a set of HiDs that do mains and high beams.
Spotlights can only be used once high beam is switched on, the spots can then be turned on and not in suburbia. Obviously relays are too be wired in .
I have converted most of my mk1s to round lights only cause the option of lamps is vast..

75Van
 
Flighter - where did you get the new headlights from?  Good price/quality?
 
Thanks again! :)

I looked on-line for ages trying to find  something that had everything right, i.e. reflectors aimed for driving on the left hand side of the road, would use the original chrome rings and mounting tabs, had a parking light built in, and used a multi-surface reflector with clear lenes for maximum brightness.  I also prefer glass lenses over polycarbonate, just for long lasting clarity, but the latter is tougher if that is important to you.  The ones I found cost me all of $50 a pair (without bulbs), and everything fits just fine.  They have the E mark and correctly oriented arrow that shows they are street legal.
 
http://www.naauto.biz/catalogue/category22/category23/p2053
 
The photo isn't the best, so check out this link for a bigger pic:
 
http://ishop2.cooldrive.com.au/products/HL102H4MSR
 
The lenses in the second link look green on my computer, but I can assure you they are clear.
 
 

They look pretty neat for round lamps - I see what you mean about the pics not being great.
 
I would like to keep the square headlights if possible.  I think I've got a spare old, rubbishy one in the shed, so I'll have a go at pulling the glass off carefully, and send it to a guy who does metallising for us at work, see if he can make it nice and shiny inside again.  Some new headlamps on eBay are saying in the listing that they're better than standard, and sell for $90 plus post, so they might be worth a try too.
 
I've also seen a few auxiliary lights that are fitted with H4s, still pretty pricey at about $300/pair, but it would be interesting to see if these are road legal - I can't see why not if they are aimed correctly, and obviously switch the low and high beams properly.

Round or square makes absolutely zero difference to the beam!  The quality of the reflector and the quality of the globe has everything to do with it.
If they are still sealed beams (non removable globes) then that is most of your problem.  The other issue is there will be bugger all choice for replacements in the MK1 square shape. 
High wattage globes used to be the answer, but this only works in old style lights with a steel reflector and glass lenses.  the majority these days are plastic so high wattage will melt the plastic due to the high heat generated.
The new Narva 7" round conversion kits have a free-form reflector and lens that will provide a much better beam than the old reflectors and you only need to use standard wattage globes which means less heat and less current draw.  The current draw is particularly relevant if you have a standard alternator! High wattage globes will usually mean your charge light glows at night because the alternator cant keep up. Fitting these lights with a decent +100% globe (still standard wattage 60/55W) will make such an enormous difference to what you currently have you wont know yourself!
 
HID - Can be done but only if your current lights take halogen globes and they are certainly NOT road legal unless the car is fitted with a self aiming system and washer squirters.  Good luck with self aiming on an Escort!
 
As someone else said, driving lights are only useful on high beam so that doesnt really solve your problem of shizen lights either unless you do a lot of night driving on roads where there isnt much traffic.
 
Decent regular headlights has to be the starting point.